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Repair a Warhammer miniature by matching the method to its material and the damage: reshape bent plastic or resin with controlled heat, weld a clean polystyrene break with plastic cement, bond resin or metal with cyanoacrylate super glue, and pin any joint that must carry weight or resist twisting. Finish by filling the seam, priming, and repainting the repaired area.
Decide what failed before applying heat or glue
The correct repair depends on four questions: what the part is made from, whether it is bent or broken, how much force the joint will receive, and whether the miniature is already painted.
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| Situation | Best first method | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Warped polystyrene plastic | Controlled hot water, then cold-water setting | Heat softens the plastic so it can be reshaped without cutting the part. |
| Warped resin | Hot water or a hair dryer/hot-air gun, followed by cold water | Resin can be reformed when warmed gradually. A naked flame can damage it and is unsafe. |
| Clean break in standard plastic | Plastic cement | The solvent partially dissolves polystyrene at the faces and lets them fuse as the joint cures. |
| Broken resin, metal, or mixed-material joint | Cyanoacrylate (super glue) | Plastic cement does not chemically bond resin or metal. |
| Heavy, thin, or repeatedly handled joint | Drilled pin plus the appropriate glue | A metal pin carries bending and twisting loads that glue alone may not withstand. |
| Painted miniature | Expose clean contact surfaces, repair, then touch up | Paint and old glue weaken the actual bond and can obscure a precise fit. |
Tools, materials, and safe preparation
Gather only what the repair requires. A typical job uses tweezers or a heat-safe tool, a container of hot water, cold water, the correct adhesive, a hobby knife or scraper, files or fine sandpaper, modelling putty, primer, and matching paints. Structural repairs additionally need a pin vice with a 1 mm model drill (the size shown in iFixit’s Warhammer repair procedure), small brass rod or pinning wire, and a way to hold the parts in alignment while the glue cures.
- Wear eye protection while drilling, cutting, filing, or snapping a pin.
- Use a dust mask when sanding resin or metal; keep dust out of your lungs and work area.
- Keep hot water, a hair dryer, and a hot-air gun away from fingers and flammable materials.
- Never use a naked flame on resin. Games Workshop’s A Guide to Building Resin Models (2024) states: “DO NOT USE A NAKED FLAME TO HEAT THE RESIN!”
- Support the miniature by its base rather than by a weapon, antenna, banner, or other thin projection.
How to straighten a bent part
Plastic or resin: the controlled-heat method
- Identify the bend and clear the surrounding area so only the affected section receives heat. Remove a detachable part from the model when possible.
- Warm water is the easiest heat source to control. Immerse the bent section gradually; for resin, a hair dryer or hot-air gun can also be used while constantly moving the airflow. Thick parts need more time to soften than thin ones.
- Remove the part with tweezers or another heat-safe tool. Gently twist or push it toward the correct position. Use small adjustments rather than one forceful bend, which can crease a softened edge or erase detail.
- Hold the corrected shape and cool the part in cold water. Cooling locks the new position. Release it only after it has firmed up.
- Inspect the detail from several angles. Repeat the warm-and-cool cycle if necessary, using less force and protecting nearby sections from heat.
Mantic’s repair guidance uses the same hot-water, reshape, and cold-water sequence. Do not heat the entire miniature when only one limb, blade, banner pole, or antenna is warped; localized heating reduces the chance of softening bases, faces, or other details.
When heat has made the damage worse
If detail has slumped, stop heating and let the part cool completely. Re-establish the broad silhouette first, then refine small features with a hobby knife or file only after the material is firm. If a thin section has split, treat it as a break and move to the appropriate adhesive or pinning procedure instead of continuing to bend it.
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Repair a clean break in polystyrene plastic
Most standard hard-plastic Warhammer sprues use polystyrene. A clean, well-fitting break can be welded rather than merely stuck.
- Dry-fit the faces. Put the pieces together without glue and check that they meet fully. Note the correct orientation and how you will hold them.
- Clean the joint. Remove loose fragments, moulding debris, paint, and old adhesive from the actual contact faces. Do not scrape away surrounding detail unnecessarily.
- Apply plastic cement sparingly. Touch cement to the mating surfaces, following the product’s applicator instructions. Excess solvent can soften or scar visible detail.
- Press and align. Bring the faces together in the exact orientation. A slight squeeze that produces a narrow bead of softened plastic can help reveal a continuous weld, but do not force a misaligned part.
- Hold the joint still. Use your fingers, a clamp designed for modelling, or temporary support until the faces stop shifting. Allow the welded plastic to cure fully before flexing it or adding paint.
Add a pin only when the break is unusually thin, load-bearing, or likely to be handled repeatedly. A pin is unnecessary for every clean snap and can create a larger hole than the original damage.
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Repair resin, metal, or mixed-material parts
Resin preparation and bonding
Resin may retain mould-release residue that prevents a reliable bond. Wash the part in warm soapy water, rinse, and dry it completely before assembly. Fit the pieces without glue, then use cyanoacrylate super glue on the clean faces. Plastic cement will not chemically fuse resin.
Resin weapons, wings, ankles, and banner poles often put leverage on a small joint. Drill and pin those connections before applying super glue when the joint is thin, heavy, or exposed to repeated handling.
Metal parts
Remove paint, loose oxidation, and old glue from the contact area, then test the fit. Super glue is suitable for ordinary metal-to-metal or metal-to-plastic joins. For a large gap or a particularly heavy metal component, two-part epoxy can provide additional gap-filling support; allow it to cure according to its manufacturer’s instructions and keep the piece immobilized during that period.
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Mixed materials
When one face is plastic and the other is resin or metal, treat the joint as a non-plastic repair: prepare both faces and use super glue. If the part is structural, add a pin that passes into both materials. Plastic cement may still be used elsewhere on the model, but not as the bonding agent for the resin or metal face.
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Pinning is appropriate for a heavy weapon, large wing, banner pole, ankle, arm, or any break where the joint is narrow and the part acts like a lever. It is also useful when a previous glue repair keeps snapping in the same place. A single pin handles ordinary shear; two pins prevent a joint from rotating around one rod.
- Mark the drilling centers. Dry-fit the parts and mark matching points on both broken faces. Choose the thickest safe area, away from the surface and from fragile detail.
- Drill the first face. Use a pin vice and a small model drill; iFixit’s Warhammer repair procedure demonstrates a 1 mm drill. Drill straight into the face, stopping before the bit can break through visible detail.
- Transfer the position. Use the first hole, a temporary short piece of rod, or careful visual alignment to mark the matching center on the other face. The two holes must meet when the parts are assembled.
- Drill the second face. Keep the depth and angle compatible with the first hole. Clear swarf and test the fit with the rod before adding glue.
- Cut and test the pin. Trim brass rod or pinning wire so it sits inside both holes without protruding. Recheck the original orientation with the dry fit.
- Glue the reinforcement. Put a small amount of super glue in the holes, insert the pin, and add glue to the joint faces. For polystyrene faces, cement can weld the plastic while super glue secures the metal pin; for resin or metal, use super glue on both the pin and the faces.
- Hold alignment until cured. Support the model so gravity cannot pull the part out of position. Do not test the joint by twisting it before the adhesive has fully set.
- Use two pins when rotation is the problem. Space the holes within the available material, keeping enough surrounding thickness to avoid splitting the part.
Drilling generates chips and can catch suddenly. Wear eye protection, keep fingers behind the bit, and work slowly rather than forcing the pin vice.
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Make the repair disappear
- Remove weak material. Once the adhesive has cured, scrape away loose paint, squeeze-out, and brittle old glue around the seam. Protect adjacent painted areas with masking or by working with a fine tool.
- Fill the visible gap. Press modelling putty into the seam or around the pin entry. Use only enough to restore the original contour.
- Smooth after curing. Let the putty harden, then file or sand it flush. Resin and metal dust require a dust mask; avoid sanding detail back into a flat surface.
- Prime the exposed area. Primer gives the touch-up paint a consistent surface and reveals remaining scratches or gaps.
- Repaint locally. Match the base color first, then restore highlights, shadows, and weathering. A painted miniature may need only a small touch-up; extensive damage can require repainting a larger panel so the color transition is not visible.
Choose the method by load, surface, and cleanup
| Method | Material compatibility | Best load case | Surface condition | Cleanup and reversibility | Tool access |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hot-water reshaping | Plastic and resin bends | Parts that are intact but warped | Bare or painted, provided heat is kept local | Usually leaves no seam; repeated heating can soften detail | Heat-safe container and tweezers |
| Plastic cement | Polystyrene-to-polystyrene | Clean breaks with broad mating faces | Best on paint-free contact faces | Can be difficult to reverse after the plastic welds | Glue applicator; pinning optional |
| Super glue | Resin, metal, plastic-to-resin, and other mixed joins | General repairs and small contact areas | Clean, dry faces; remove paint at the bond | Excess can be scraped, but residue may remain on paint | Glue only for light joints; drill and pin for heavy ones |
| Pin plus adhesive | Plastic, resin, metal, or mixed materials | Structural, thin, heavy, or twist-prone joints | Requires bare drilling and bonding points | Strongest reinforcement, but holes and putty must be finished | Pin vice, about 1 mm drill, brass rod or wire, and glue |
| Two-part epoxy | Especially useful on large metal gaps or heavy loads | Joints needing gap filling and extended support | Clean, dry, abraded contact surfaces | Longer working and curing time; excess must be removed before hardening | Mixing surface and support while curing |
Troubleshoot common failed repairs
The part springs back after straightening
It was probably not softened through its full thickness or was released before cooling. Repeat the localized warm-and-cold cycle, give a thick section more time, and hold the exact shape while it cools.
The glue joint pops off cleanly
Paint, mould-release residue, or old adhesive may still be between the faces, or the adhesive may not match the material. Expose fresh surfaces, wash and dry resin, and switch to plastic cement only for a true polystyrene-to-polystyrene weld. Use super glue for resin, metal, and mixed materials.
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The repair holds but rotates
The joint is carrying torque that a single glue layer cannot resist. Drill a second parallel hole for another pin, or reposition the pin deeper into sound material if the first hole is shallow.
The seam is visible under paint
Adhesive alone cannot replace missing material. Apply a small amount of modelling putty, let it cure, smooth it flush, prime, and repaint. If the surrounding paint has lifted, remove the loose section rather than sealing it underneath a new coat.
A drill or pin split the part
Stop enlarging the hole. Glue the split faces first, let them cure, and reassess whether there is enough surrounding thickness for a smaller or differently positioned pin. If not, rely on a broader adhesive contact area and a putty fillet rather than forcing a pin through fragile detail.
Prevent the next break
- Carry and store the miniature by its base or a solid torso section, never by a weapon, banner, antenna, or wing tip.
- Use a case or compartment that prevents thin projections from striking the walls during transport.
- Inspect high-leverage joins after games and before packing the model away.
- When assembling a heavy resin or metal component for the first time, pin it before the joint fails instead of waiting for a clean break.
- Keep repaired models away from heat sources that could soften reshaped plastic or resin.
No authoritative published figures establish breakage rates, repair success rates, or average repair time for Warhammer miniatures, so the right method is determined by material, geometry, and handling load rather than a universal success percentage.
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