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Yes, a DIY force-sensing joystick can cost less than a specialized commercial force stick, but the sensor is only one line in the budget. A practical F-16-style design uses load cells, HX711 amplifiers and a Teensy 4.0 to measure applied force on pitch and roll axes, then appears to the computer as a USB HID joystick. Once you add a rigid mechanism, fabrication, wiring, tools and calibration time, the total may approach or exceed a basic ready-made stick. DIY is most compelling when you need unusual ergonomics, a center-mounted control, left-handed geometry or a repairable custom design.
Force sensing is different from a conventional joystick
A conventional joystick measures displacement: a gimbal moves through an angle and a potentiometer, Hall sensor or encoder reports position. A force-sensing stick largely stays in place. Strain in a load cell, or resistance change in a force-sensitive resistor (FSR), reports how hard the pilot pushes. Software converts that force into pitch and roll axes.
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The distinction matters in an F-16-style controller because the stick can be short and rigid, with no large gimbal or centering travel. It also changes the mechanical problem: the structure must transmit force predictably while preventing the sensor, cable or magnet from becoming a travel stop.
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The load-cell architecture for a serious force stick
Hackaday’s Zoe Skyforest reported on October 14, 2026, on a “tekasza” build using a Teensy 4.0, separate load cells for X and Y, HX711 amplifier boards and USB HID output. The same controller incorporates pedals, buttons and switches.
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- Apply force: A rigid grip and frame route pitch and roll loads into the corresponding load cell.
- Amplify the bridge signal: Each HX711 provides the high-gain, 24-bit interface needed to read a load cell’s small differential output.
- Process on the microcontroller: The Teensy samples both channels, applies neutral and endpoint calibration, and scales the readings into joystick-axis values.
- Expose USB HID: The Teensy presents a game-controller descriptor, allowing Windows and simulator software to see USB axes and button inputs.
Before closing the enclosure, verify that the firmware exposes a genuine USB HID game-controller device. A serial port that merely streams numbers is not enough for a simulator to recognize it as a joystick.
Mechanical requirements
- Use a rigid load path so frame flex does not become unintended axis input.
- Add positive mechanical end stops; never let a load cell, magnet or wiring absorb the full stop load.
- Provide strain relief at every moving or removable cable.
- Set the neutral position only after the frame is centered and fasteners are tightened.
- Check connector seating, ground continuity, bearing friction and spring symmetry before increasing software filtering.
FSRs: the inexpensive prototype route
FSRs reduce mechanical and electrical complexity. The usual circuit is an FSR and fixed resistor forming a voltage divider, with the divider output read by an analog input. Filtering and calibration then turn the changing voltage into a relative axis command.
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Makers Making Change documented a four-FSR joystick on April 18, 2017, with an estimated homemade cost of approximately $40–$50. That project reported drift at maximum deflection and clicking or squeaking during movement. ElectricalFlux’s David Chen described a single FlexiForce A201 and Arduino prototype on September 9, 2026: the sensor is rated for 0–25 lb (0–111 N), the build is estimated at 45 minutes and $28–$35, and the guide recommends a voltage divider, filtering and calibration.
Those figures describe prototype parts, not a complete simulator cockpit. FSR readings are useful as relative control input, but creep, hysteresis, noise and drift make them poor substitutes for precision force measurement. A stick that feels centered on one push may return a different value after sustained pressure or repeated cycles.
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Load cells versus FSRs
| Factor | Load cells with HX711 | FSRs |
|---|---|---|
| Sensing principle | Strain-based force measurement | Resistive pressure measurement |
| Typical signal chain | Load cell → HX711 → microcontroller → USB HID | FSR → fixed-resistor divider → analog input → filtering and calibration |
| Repeatability | Generally the stronger choice for stable axis output when the mechanics are rigid | More susceptible to creep, hysteresis, noise and drift in the cited builds |
| Mechanical demands | Requires a controlled load path, rigid frame and protected end stops | Can fit a compact prototype, but still needs consistent force distribution |
| Best use | A durable simulator controller where predictable axes matter | A low-cost proof of concept or compact relative-input controller |
What the project really costs
Sensor prices alone give a misleading answer. Include the frame, grip, fasteners, end-stop hardware, wiring, connectors, USB cable, fabrication, failed prints or cuts, tools and replacement parts. Ian Stephens, editor-in-chief at Fly Away Simulation, cautions: “Building a joystick is not automatically cheaper than buying one.” Bearings, sensors and fabrication can push a custom build beyond the price of a basic commercial stick.
DIY has a clearer payoff when the requirement is unusual: a long or short grip, center mounting, left-handed operation, helicopter-style travel or easy repair. For a first conventional displacement controller, Stephens recommends two smooth axes, contactless sensing if affordable, simple spring centering and only a few grip controls. A force-sensing project should prove USB axis handling first, then add its specialized load path and amplifier.
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Build sequence that avoids expensive rework
- Prototype the USB interface: Load a minimal Teensy HID joystick sketch and confirm the operating system lists axes and buttons as a game controller.
- Read one sensor: Test one load cell through an HX711, or one FSR divider through an analog pin. Log neutral, light pressure and maximum intended force.
- Construct the force path: Add the grip, frame, sensor mounts and end stops. Ensure the sensor is loaded in its specified direction and does not bend from side loads.
- Add the second axis and controls: Wire X and Y separately, then pedals, switches and buttons. Keep analog and digital grounds tidy.
- Calibrate mechanically: With the stick untouched, capture neutral. Apply controlled positive and negative force to establish endpoints only after the structure is rigid.
- Calibrate in software: Set dead zone and response curve conservatively, then repeat checks after the frame has warmed up and after sustained deflection.
- Map the simulator: Generic HID devices commonly receive generic axis names. Assign pitch and roll manually, invert an axis if necessary, and run the simulator’s own calibration page.
Troubleshooting and compatibility
Axis drifts while untouched
For an FSR, expect creep and temperature- or time-dependent drift; recheck the divider, filtering and neutral calibration. For a load cell, inspect frame flex, loose mounts, ground connections and cable tension before adding heavier filtering.
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Check that the load path is not preloading the sensor, that the HX711 gain and firmware scaling match the sensor, and that a mechanical stop—not the sensor—is limiting travel.
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The simulator sees buttons but no axes
Confirm the USB descriptor identifies a game controller, reconnect after firmware changes, and assign the newly exposed axes manually in the simulator.
Will it work on a console?
A Teensy USB HID implementation is principally a PC-focused solution. Console compatibility is unverified unless the specific console, USB mode and game have been tested with that interface.
Bottom line
Choose load cells and HX711 boards when repeatable pitch and roll output is the priority; choose FSRs when a compact, inexpensive prototype matters more than exact force measurement. In both cases, budget for mechanics, fabrication, calibration and troubleshooting—not just sensors. The cheapest successful build is the one whose USB interface, rigid force path and calibration are proven before the final enclosure is made.
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