The simple swap is to stop buying one long HDMI cable and instead buy an HDMI cable sized to each individual connection. A cable that matches the distance between two devices, with a little slack at each end, leaves less surplus wire to coil, zip-tie, or hide, and that is what keeps an open-back entertainment center or a wall-mounted TV looking tidy.
Why extra cable length shows up as clutter
Most people buy a longer HDMI cable than they need as insurance. The problem is that the surplus does not disappear. It gets looped behind a cabinet, bundled into a tangle, or left in a loose coil on the floor, and it is usually the most visible part of the setup. BGR’s Michael Bizzaco, who wrote the guide this approach comes from (published September 27, 2026), points to cables of 20 feet or longer as a common source of this problem when they are not run inside a wall. That 20-foot threshold is an illustrative example from the article, not a measured limit that applies to every room.
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This is a matter of cable length management, not a rule that every visible cable must disappear into a wall. A short run between a player and a receiver sitting side by side may look neat exposed, and a cable that is carefully routed along a baseboard can be entirely acceptable. The goal is to make the length fit the route.
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- Measure the actual route, not the straight-line distance. Run a soft tape or a piece of string from the output port on the source device to the input port on the destination device, following the path the cable will take. Include every bend, the vertical drop from a shelf or wall mount, and any gap between the back of the device and the cabinet wall.
- Add about two extra feet for a single A-to-B connection. The guide’s rule of thumb is roughly one foot of slack at each end, which gives enough length to plug in and unplug without pulling on the connectors. This is a practical allowance chosen by the author, not a standard set by any standards body or a tested figure.
- Round up to the nearest standard length you can buy. If the measured route plus slack comes to 7.4 feet, choose the next length the seller offers rather than cutting a larger cable down to size.
- Test-fit before you tighten anything. Dry-fit the cable along its intended path, with the device in its final position. Confirm the connector sits flat against the port and that the cable does not bend sharply where it leaves the device.
- Check the cable against the devices it connects. Confirm the cable category supports what the equipment needs, as covered in the next section.
A cable that is too short puts strain on connector ends and on device inputs. If your measured route leaves no slack, the correct fix is a longer cable, not a tight, stressed run.
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Check capability before you buy
A tidy cable that cannot carry the signal your equipment is sending is not a good result. Before you choose a length, check three things:
- Device requirements. Review the resolution, refresh rate, and bandwidth your source and display support. High-bandwidth setups need a cable rated for them.
- Cable category. HDMI Licensing Administrator, Inc. describes Ultra High Speed HDMI cables as built for systems that need up to 48Gbps. The same organization states that these cables are backward compatible and can be used with all existing HDMI devices, so an older device will still work with one, though it will not run faster than the device itself allows.
- Official certification label. For an Ultra High Speed HDMI cable, look for the official certification label on the packaging. HDMI Licensing Administrator says certified models must pass testing before they carry the label, which is the simplest way to confirm a cable meets the category’s specification. The certification program is described at https://www.hdmi.org/spec21sub/ultrahighspeedcable/1000, and the current specification overview is at https://www.hdmi.org/spec/hdmi2/.
If a device you already own does not need high bandwidth, a cable without the Ultra High Speed label may still work. Match the cable to the equipment rather than buying the highest category by default.
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Check the cable that came with the device
Some consoles and set-top devices ship with an HDMI cable in the box. The BGR guide cites PlayStation 5 and Xbox Series X|S as examples of devices that may include one. Whether that included cable is suitable depends on its length and on the layout of your setup. Measure it the same way you would measure a replacement. An included cable that is too long for the route creates the same visible coil you were trying to avoid, and one that is too short may not reach at all.
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If a cable is only slightly short, an HDMI coupler can join two cables to bridge the gap. Treat this as a contingency rather than the main fix. The BGR guide warns that couplers can be finicky, and a joint adds a connection point that can loosen or introduce signal problems. A coupler is a reasonable short-term option for a cable that is close to the length you need; for a route that is clearly too short, replace the cable instead.
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Example: a player beside its receiver
The clearest illustration of right-sizing comes from the BGR guide itself. Bizzaco writes: “This 4K Blu-ray player will do just fine with a three-foot HDMI, because it’s plugging into my AV receiver, which it’s sitting right next to.” This is an illustrative sentence from the article, not an interview or an independent expert endorsement. The principle behind it is what matters: when two devices sit side by side, a short cable is enough, and a longer one only adds wire to hide.
When visible cable is fine and when it should be routed differently
Short, neatly placed runs behind a cabinet or along a shelf are usually the right choice, even when they are visible. Cable run through a wall is a different job. It depends on the wall, the building, and local wiring rules, so it is worth confirming the requirements before you cut into drywall. Sizing each cable to its route makes both approaches easier, because a cable that fits the gap needs less strain relief, fewer ties, and less management overall.
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Summary of the approach
Measure each route from port to port, add about two feet for a single connection, round up to the nearest standard length, and confirm that the cable’s category matches the devices. Use an official Ultra High Speed label when your equipment needs that bandwidth, and keep a coupler as a backup for cables that are only slightly short.
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The only figure in this approach that is not from a standard is the two-foot allowance. It is a practical rule of thumb from the BGR guide, and you can adjust it up or down based on how much slack your particular devices and layout need.
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Sources: BGR, Michael Bizzaco, “This Simple Swap Makes It Easy To Keep TV Cables Hidden,” September 27, 2026: https://www.bgr.com/2265205/simple-swap-keeps-tv-cables-hidden/. Certification and specification information from HDMI Licensing Administrator, Inc. as linked above.
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