The Tool Desk
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How to tell whether filament needs drying
Filament can absorb moisture from the surrounding air. During extrusion, that moisture may contribute to poor surface quality, reduced layer adhesion, blobs, bubbling, smoke, or more stringing than usual. Jabil also identifies rough finish and unexpected mechanical performance as possible signs. These clues are not a definitive moisture test: compare the spool with its own previous behavior, since stringing also varies by material and can have causes unrelated to moisture.
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Materials that warrant particular attention include polyamide (nylon), polypropylene, PVA, and BVOH. Prusa describes these as highly hygroscopic and recommends dry storage or drying before each print for them. See Prusa Research’s filament-drying guidance and Jabil’s FFF Filament Printing and Drying Guide.
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- Find the instructions for the exact filament. Check the maker’s recommended drying temperature and duration for the material and product line. Do not assume that a setting for a generic material applies to every brand or blend.
- Check the spool as well as the filament. Confirm that both can tolerate the specified temperature and that the spool fits in the dryer. Excessive heat can soften filament, cause adjacent turns to stick, or warp a spool.
- Use a dryer that can reach and hold the specified temperature. A temperature-controlled filament dryer is designed for this task; some models also let filament feed directly to the printer while the spool remains inside. Check the device’s temperature range and feed-through arrangement against your workflow.
- Be cautious with a household oven. Prusa warns that home ovens may read temperatures imprecisely or may not operate at a low enough temperature for some filament. If using one, verify the temperature with an external thermometer and confirm that it can safely maintain the required setting.
- Store the spool dry after the cycle. Move it to a closed box or vacuum bag with desiccant, as Prusa recommends, or another sealed filament container with desiccant, as described in the PrintDry manual.
Why drying time and temperature vary
There is no universal schedule. The values below are examples from specific sources, not interchangeable settings. Follow the filament maker’s instructions for the exact spool; check the spool’s heat tolerance before using a schedule.
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Prusament examples from Prusa Research
Prusa lists these settings for Prusament materials and warns that exceeding the values can soften filament and make it stick:
| Prusament material | Example setting |
|---|---|
| PLA/rPLA | 45 °C for 6 hours |
| PVB | 45 °C for 8 hours |
| PETG, all versions | 55 °C for 6 hours |
| TPU | 60 °C for 4–6 hours |
| ASA | 80 °C for 4 hours |
| PC Blend | 85 °C for 5 hours |
| PA11 Carbon Fiber | 90 °C for 6 hours |
| PEI | 150 °C for 8 hours |
Source: Prusa Research, “Drying filament”.
PrintDry manual examples
PrintDry’s 2020 manual gives the following recommendations under stated conditions: 50% ambient relative humidity, 25 °C ambient temperature, and a 500 g original filament spool. It says actual duration varies with additives, initial water content, and ambient temperature and humidity; filament exposed for weeks may need substantially longer.
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| Material in the manual | Example setting |
|---|---|
| PLA | 55 °C for more than 3 hours |
| ABS | 65 °C for more than 3 hours |
| PETG | 65 °C for more than 3 hours |
| Nylon | 75 °C for more than 12 hours |
| TPU/TPE | 55 °C for more than 4 hours |
| PC | 75 °C for more than 6 hours |
These are the manual’s starting recommendations, not a replacement for the filament maker’s current instructions. Source: PrintDry, “Filament Dryer Manual”.
Industrial guide values are not consumer defaults
Jabil’s guide lists typical values of PLA at 80 °C for 4 hours, PETG at 70 °C for 6 hours, and nylon 6/12 at 80 °C for at least 6 hours. It also warns that higher heat can warp spools or degrade filament. Those industrial guide figures should not be applied automatically to an arbitrary consumer spool. Source: Jabil’s FFF Filament Printing and Drying Guide.
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How to choose a drying and storage setup
Evaluate the workflow, not just the device’s headline temperature. The right setup needs to match the filament’s requirements and the spool’s limits.
- Temperature capability: Can the method reach the filament maker’s specified setting?
- Temperature control: Can it hold that temperature reliably for the required duration?
- Spool fit and tolerance: Does the spool fit, and can its material withstand the cycle?
- Drying versus storage: Does the device actively dry filament, or does it simply keep a spool dry?
- Printing from the dryer: If you need to feed filament while printing, does the dryer support feed-through?
- Post-drying storage: Can you transfer the spool promptly to a sealed container with desiccant?
The cited guidance does not establish one best dryer model for every material and workflow.
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- 3 Circulation Fans: Three high-quality fans circulate air inside, ensuring consistent temperature across the entire area for more even drying, 360 surround heating
- 350W PTC Heater: SUNLU filament dryer S4 is equipped with a 350W PTC heater, offering safety and higher heating efficiency (50% higher than the FilaDryer S2)
- 8 Filament Exit Holes: SUNLU filament dryer S4 features eight filament outlets for multiple printers and various filament loading angles, smoother loading and printing
- Personalized Temperature Setting and Timer: Temperature setting range is 35-70C, timer setting range is 0-99 hours. Users can adjust parameters to suit filament conditions
What to check if drying does not fix the print
If the same defects continue after you have followed the correct drying instructions, investigate other possible causes rather than increasing heat or time without guidance. Check printing settings, nozzle condition, and material-specific behavior. The cited guides describe moisture-related symptoms but do not establish a universal moisture test or guarantee that drying alone will resolve every print defect.
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