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There is no single maximum distance. As a starting point, TP-Link suggests about 25 to 40 feet from the router for extenders with external antennas and about 20 to 35 feet for models with internal antennas. That assumes the router’s signal is still strong at that spot. NETGEAR gives a more general rule: put the extender roughly halfway between the router and the weak-coverage area, but still within the router’s wireless range. Walls and other obstacles may force it closer.
Why the answer is a range, not a number
An extender does two jobs. It receives the router’s signal, then rebroadcasts it. The rebroadcast is only as good as the link back to the router. Put the extender too far out and it will happily broadcast a weak, slow connection. Put it too close and it adds little coverage. The right spot is the farthest one where the router link is still solid.
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That is why manufacturer figures come with conditions. They are guidance, not lab-measured limits, and neither manufacturer gives a reliable “feet lost per wall” conversion.
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Manufacturer guidance at a glance
| Source | Guidance | Condition |
|---|---|---|
| TP-Link (placement guide, updated April 17, 2026) | About 25–40 ft from the router for external-antenna models | Router signal must still be strong at that distance |
| TP-Link (same guide) | About 20–35 ft for internal-antenna models | Same |
| NETGEAR Support | Roughly halfway between router and the client or weak area | The extender must be within the router’s wireless range |
NETGEAR’s support page puts it this way: the ideal location is halfway between your router or access point and your computer, but the extender must be within the wireless range of the router. The page names no individual author.
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How to find the right spot
- Locate the dead zone. Note where coverage is weak, then consider the midpoint between it and the router. Treat this as a first guess. If the extender gets a weak router signal there, the midpoint is wrong.
- Start near the router. NETGEAR’s quick setup guide recommends starting close, then moving the extender outward step by step toward the weak area.
- Watch the link indicator. On NETGEAR’s Router Link LED, green is best, amber is good and red is poor. Other brands use different lights or an app, so check your model’s documentation.
- Stop before the link degrades. Choose the farthest spot that still gives a good router link, then test speed and stability in the target area.
- Move closer if there are obstructions. If walls or other obstacles weaken the link, try a spot nearer the router or with a clearer path.
What can shorten the distance
- Walls and obstacles. Both manufacturers say obstructions can mean the extender must sit closer.
- Home layout. The same distance can work in an open plan and fail across several rooms.
- Antenna style. TP-Link’s lower figures for internal-antenna models reflect this.
If no wireless spot works
If you cannot find a location with a stable link, TP-Link recommends connecting the extender to the router by Ethernet and setting it to access-point mode. A cable removes the wireless link back to the router, so distance from the router matters far less. The catch is that you need to run a cable.
Other options if coverage is still poor
NETGEAR’s guide on eliminating dead zones lists moving the router and using a mesh system among the possible fixes. Which is best depends on your layout, whether you can run cable, and where the dead zone is. The guidance does not name a universal winner.
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| Option | Best when |
|---|---|
| Extender (wireless) | One weak area, and a spot exists where the router link is still good |
| Extender or access point over Ethernet | You can run a cable and wireless backhaul is unstable |
| Repositioned router | The router sits in a corner or closet and the weak area is on the far side of the home |
| Mesh system | Coverage is inadequate across much of the home |
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