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Start by identifying what the wombat is doing
Wombats commonly travel between feeding and resting sites along established trails. A fence that suddenly blocks one of those trails can cause persistent digging at the base, undercutting, or attempts to push through a weak point. The most humane solution may therefore be to keep a passage open rather than build a stronger wall.
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Inspect the site from a distance and classify the problem before buying materials. Look for fresh soil, flattened vegetation, tracks, and repeated entry points. Do not enter a burrow, poke inside it, or fill it while an animal may be present.
- Established fence runway: repeated travel along one fence line or through a known breach suggests a route-sharing gate.
- Digging at a garden perimeter: fresh spoil along the base of a fence calls for a physical barrier that is designed and monitored to resist digging.
- Damage to beds or lawns: a temporary deterrent may help while you identify the route, but it does not replace exclusion where plants or infrastructure must be protected.
- Burrow beneath a shed, deck or building: this is a wildlife-management problem, not ordinary garden maintenance. A specialist may need to install a one-way exit and protect the entrance before any repair.
Photograph signs from outside the animal’s immediate area and note when activity occurs. That record helps an authority distinguish an active burrow from an old one and choose an intervention that does not trap the wombat.
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Choose between sharing the route and excluding the area
| Method | Use it when | What it does | Main obligations and risks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wombat swing gate | A wombat repeatedly uses a fence opening or runway and can safely pass through a defined point. | Retains a known route while the surrounding fence can continue to exclude some other animals. | Must be visible, light enough for a wombat to push, sturdy, free of sharp edges and maintained. Poor placement can simply move the digging. |
| Mesh fence with a ground skirt | A particular garden, enclosure or structure genuinely needs exclusion. | Discourages digging under the fence when the skirt is installed and monitored correctly. | Check daily at first for digging, gaps and entanglement hazards. Mesh size, anchoring and layout are site-specific; no universal gauge or burial depth is established by the cited guidance. |
| Motion-activated sprinkler | You need a low-risk, temporary deterrent while assessing the site. | Startles an approaching animal and may reduce visits. | Results are not guaranteed. A wombat may shift its digging to another location, so monitor nearby ground. |
| One-way door | A wombat is living under a building or inside an area that must be closed after the animal leaves. | Allows exit but prevents return when correctly installed with exclusion protection. | Specialist work is usually warranted. A blocked or badly fitted door can trap an animal or separate it from a dependent young. |
The choice is not simply “soft” versus “strong” fencing. Consider whether passage should continue, whether the issue is a runway or a structure, how much maintenance you can provide, and whether the design could injure, trap or displace wildlife. Confirm state requirements before construction.
What is a wombat swing gate?
A wombat swing gate is a small, visible mesh gate placed at a breach or well-used crossing. It is intended to move when a wombat pushes through, preserving access while the rest of the fence remains in place. New South Wales guidance describes swing gates at known breach points for this purpose. Blocking every familiar route can encourage a wombat to dig under the fence instead.
Introduce the gate gradually
Victorian Conservation Regulator guidance recommends a staged introduction rather than installing a closed gate overnight:
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- Locate two or three well-used holes or crossings. Use fresh signs and repeated tracks to identify the route, not just the largest hole.
- Repair nearby alternative openings. Concentrating passage at one safe point reduces the chance of multiple new breaches.
- Install and leave the frame in place first. Let animals become accustomed to the new object before adding the moving panel.
- Hang the gate partly open. This creates a visible, low-resistance passage while the wombat learns the route.
- Allow the gate to hang vertically only after use is established. It should still move when pushed and should not slam down or trap a limb.
Inspect the hinge, frame, mesh and ground contact after rain and whenever you see fresh soil. The Victorian guidance specifically says ongoing maintenance is required.
Dimensions are examples, not a universal specification
The Victorian page gives a design example measuring 60 cm wide by 90 cm tall. South Australian guidance describes a different typical two-way opening, usually about 30–40 cm high and 40–50 cm wide. These figures serve different applications and jurisdictions; they must not be merged into a single national standard. Design the opening with local advice, the animal’s route and the surrounding fence in mind.
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Use a gate that is easy for a wombat to see and push but robust enough to discourage other animals. Remove protruding wire, sharp corners and pinch points. Keep the bottom edge from creating a slot where a paw, leg or young animal could become trapped. A gate that drags in mud or becomes wedged is no longer a safe passage.
How to stop wombats digging under a fence
Where exclusion is genuinely necessary, a continuous physical barrier is more dependable than trying to frighten an animal away. South Australian guidance describes a wire skirt at the fence base, with rocks as optional reinforcement. The skirt extends the barrier outward so a wombat meets mesh when it starts to dig rather than finding an unprotected edge.
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- Map the perimeter. Mark existing holes, drainage channels, corners and any place where the fence meets a building. These are common weak points.
- Select heavy welded or steel wire mesh. The official material reviewed does not set one universal wire gauge, mesh opening or installation depth for every garden, so choose a product and layout that suit the site and obtain local advice where necessary.
- Fix the mesh continuously to the fence base. Avoid loose loops, exposed cut ends and openings that could catch a foot or head.
- Lay the skirt on the wombat side of the fence. Secure it firmly and use suitable rocks or other approved reinforcement where the local guidance and ground conditions support it.
- Protect corners and gates. A gap beside a post or beneath a swinging panel can become the new digging target.
- Check after installation and after weather. Look for lifted mesh, washouts, fresh spoil and any animal caught against the barrier.
South Australia notes that buried footings can cost more and may be less effective because wombats can dig beneath them. Low electric wires can also be difficult to maintain and are generally not favoured in that guidance. Tasmania and New South Wales describe two electric wires at 15 cm and 30 cm above ground as an access-prevention measure in their own settings. Those are jurisdictional recommendations, not a universal garden design; obtain state-specific advice before using electricity around wildlife, children or pets.
Monitor instead of assuming the fence worked
Walk the outside edge regularly, especially during the first weeks. A fresh mound beside the skirt means the animal is testing the barrier; repair the weakness promptly rather than waiting for a complete tunnel. If digging moves to a new corner, do not keep adding random layers of wire. Reassess whether the fence is blocking a major travel route and whether a designated gate would solve the underlying conflict.
Can sprinklers or scents keep wombats out?
Tasmanian guidance says motion-activated sprinklers can act as a deterrent. New South Wales and Tasmanian pages also mention organic fertiliser or predator-scent materials placed near burrows as possible temporary deterrents. Treat these methods as experiments with limited duration, not as guaranteed control.
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- Position a sprinkler so it does not flood a burrow, erode a path or create a slippery hazard.
- Check whether the animal simply begins digging a few metres away or on the other side of the property.
- Use only materials permitted in your state and keep scents away from drinking water, pets and children.
- Remove or stop the deterrent if it causes repeated panic, unsafe road crossings or displacement toward a building.
Both New South Wales and Tasmania warn that a displaced wombat may dig somewhere less desirable. If an area must remain protected, combine careful monitoring with a properly designed barrier and a safe route elsewhere where feasible.
What to do about a burrow under a building
An occupied burrow beneath a deck, shed or house needs a different sequence from garden-bed protection. New South Wales describes a sturdy one-way door that lets an animal leave but prevents return, with steel mesh around the entrance if needed to stop digging underneath. South Australia also describes one-way gates used with exclusion fencing so an animal can exit a fenced area or leave a burrow before it is destroyed.
Do not improvise by covering the opening, blocking ventilation or placing a door while the wombat may be inside. A qualified wildlife professional or the relevant state authority can assess whether a young is present, choose the exit direction and determine when it is safe to close the entrance. The door must be checked for operation and the protected perimeter must be ready before the final closure; otherwise the animal may become trapped or immediately reopen the structure.
How to tell whether a burrow is inactive
New South Wales guidance says only inactive burrows may be bulldozed. It describes placing sticks across entrances and checking them daily for at least a week to see whether they are disturbed. This is an observation method, not permission to enter or dismantle a burrow. Weather, other animals and collapse can make signs difficult to interpret, so ask the state authority when the result is uncertain.
South Australia says burrow destruction should be considered only where impacts are significant and must occur without harm or suffering. An apparently quiet entrance is not proof that no wombat is present, and an adult may have more than one opening. Never use machinery on a burrow until the relevant authority has confirmed the legal and welfare requirements.
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Trapping, relocation and legal responsibilities
Rules are state-specific. Tasmania states that trapping and relocating wombats without the relevant permit is illegal and warns that trapping is highly stressful. Other states also regulate interference with wildlife and burrows. A fence problem does not create a do-it-yourself right to capture, transport or release an animal elsewhere.
Before disturbing a burrow, changing a fence route or installing a one-way device, contact the wildlife agency for your state and ask:
- Is the species and burrow covered by a permit, code of practice or local restriction?
- How should an active burrow and any dependent young be assessed?
- Is a gate, skirt, electric wire or one-way door acceptable at this location?
- Who is authorised to close or destroy a burrow if damage is significant?
- What inspection and record-keeping is required after the work?
The South Australian Department for Environment and Water states: “All wombat management must consider the welfare of the wombat, follow permit conditions and relevant codes of practice or guidelines.” That principle applies before construction, during monitoring and when a problem appears to be solved.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.State guidance at a glance
| State source | Relevant advice | Date or status |
|---|---|---|
| New South Wales Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water | Use swing gates at known breaches; describes two electric wires at 15 and 30 cm; one-way doors for burrows under buildings; only inactive burrows may be bulldozed, with entrance checks using sticks for at least a week; warns displacement can move digging. | “Living with wombats,” updated 1 July 2026. |
| Victorian Conservation Regulator | Gradual swing-gate introduction; visible mesh gate that a wombat can push; example gate 60 cm wide by 90 cm tall; ongoing maintenance required. | “Common Wombat wildlife management methods,” published 20 May 2024. |
| South Australian Department for Environment and Water | Wire skirts, optional rock reinforcement, monitoring for digging, typical two-way gate opening about 30–40 cm high by 40–50 cm wide, and one-way gates with exclusion fencing; buried footings and low electric wires have limitations in its guidance. | “Managing wombats,” page accessed 13 October 2026; publication date not stated. |
| Tasmanian Department of Natural Resources and Environment | Motion-activated sprinklers and temporary scent approaches; heavy steel mesh for covering empty burrows and test digs; two electric wires at 15 and 30 cm; trapping and relocation without the relevant permit is illegal there. | “Living with Wombats,” last published 1 October 2026. |
This table does not establish rules for every Australian jurisdiction. If you live outside New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia or Tasmania, obtain advice from your own state or territory authority before acting.
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Maintenance and troubleshooting
The wombat keeps digging beside the gate
Check that the gate is at the actual crossing, opens with light pressure and has no gap that invites a bypass. Repair competing holes and watch whether the animal is approaching from a different direction. If the route cannot be shared safely, replace the gate strategy with a monitored exclusion plan after consulting the authority.
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The mesh is lifted or soil is washing underneath
Stop the opening from becoming a tunnel. Re-secure the skirt, restore ground contact and address drainage or erosion. Inspect corners, joins and the area beneath any pedestrian or vehicle gate, where small gaps often persist.
The sprinkler moved the problem
Follow the new tracks rather than increasing spray intensity. A relocated digging site near a road, retaining wall or building may create a greater hazard. Remove the deterrent and seek advice if the animal is being pushed into an unsafe route.
You cannot tell whether the burrow is occupied
Do not seal it or bring in machinery. Keep people and pets away, record observations from a distance and contact the state wildlife authority or a qualified wildlife professional for an assessment.
A practical decision checklist
- Preserve passage: choose a swing gate when the wombat has a clear, repeatable route and the crossing can be made safe.
- Protect a defined area: choose a welded or heavy steel mesh barrier with a ground skirt, then monitor and repair it.
- Buy time: try a motion-activated sprinkler or approved temporary scent only while you diagnose the site, and watch for displacement.
- Address a structure: use a specialist one-way-door plan; never block an occupied burrow.
- Before any capture or destruction: confirm permits, welfare rules and the correct state process.
A humane garden plan does not rely on a single product. It keeps a familiar route where possible, makes unavoidable barriers predictable and visible, and treats every burrow as potentially occupied until competent advice establishes otherwise.
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