The Tool Desk
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What slipping and stripping actually mean
Slipping is the bit climbing out of the screw recess while torque is applied. Stripping is the resulting damage: the recess edges become rounded or polished, so the bit has even less to grip. iFixit explains that the harder driver material can smooth the softer screw recess during a cam-out, creating a cycle in which each attempt slips more easily.
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The torque needed to damage a screw is not a universal number. It changes with the screw material, recess design, bit condition, alignment, thread engagement and workpiece. No broadly applicable stripping-torque or failure-rate statistic has been established in the cited repair and manufacturer guidance, so practical control matters more than chasing a single torque figure.
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Choose the right bit before applying force
Match the recess profile
Look closely at the screw head and identify its standard. A Phillips bit is not a universal substitute for every cross-shaped recess. JIS and Pozidriv profiles can look similar while having different geometry; a mismatch reduces contact and encourages cam-out. Torx, tri-point and flathead screws likewise require their own profiles.
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| Screw recess | Correct approach | Typical mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Phillips | Use the Phillips size that fills the cross without forcing it. | Using a smaller bit because it enters easily. |
| JIS | Use a JIS bit when the head is made for that standard, especially on Japanese equipment. | Assuming every cross recess is Phillips. |
| Pozidriv | Use a Pozidriv bit; the additional marks around the cross help distinguish it. | Driving with a Phillips bit that contacts only part of the recess. |
| Torx | Match the exact star size, such as T20 or T25, without rocking. | Trying a nearby size or a hex key that does not fill the lobes. |
| Tri-point | Use the specified three-wing bit, common in some electronics. | Substituting a small Phillips and damaging the shallow wings. |
| Flathead | Choose a blade that fits the slot width and depth; keep it centered. | Using a blade that is too thin, narrow or rounded. |
iFixit product engineer Andrew Goldheart summarizes the sizing rule: “Use the right size bit. Too small and you float inside the recess; too large, and you’re not getting the best turning power.” The practical test is snug contact on all usable faces, not merely that the bit can enter the head.
Compare adjacent sizes
When uncertain, try neighboring sizes by hand with the screw stationary. Select the largest bit that seats fully without force. A tip that bottoms out before its flanks engage is too large, while a tip that wiggles or leaves visible gaps is too small. Do not hammer a near-match into place: forcing it can deform the recess and the bit.
For mixed hardware, an interchangeable screwdriver bit set covering Phillips, JIS, Pozidriv, Torx, tri-point, hex and flathead profiles is more useful than a large collection of one profile. Keep uncommon bits available for electronics and appliance repairs rather than improvising with a visibly different shape.
Keep the driver on the screw axis
Align before turning
Hold the driver shaft directly in line with the screw. iFixit’s repair guidance is explicit: “Keep the driver directly in line with the screw, with the shaft directly over the screw head.” Even a small angle loads one side of the recess, reducing contact on the opposite side and making cam-out likely.
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Support the tool with both hands when possible: one hand keeps the shaft aligned and supplies downward pressure, while the other controls the handle or trigger. For a drill/driver, brace your forearm so the tool does not tilt as resistance rises.
Seat the bit and maintain moderate pressure
Clear dust, paint chips, metal filings and debris from the recess. Push the bit fully down before turning. Apply continuous, moderate downward pressure as the screw starts. Too little pressure allows the bit to rise; excessive pressure can worsen damage once the bit begins to cam out because the edges are being crushed while torque continues.
Pressure should follow the axis, not be applied sideways. If you feel a rhythmic skip, see the bit lift, or hear a sharp clicking sound, release the trigger, reseat the bit and reassess the profile, size and alignment instead of trying to overpower the slip.
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When a hand driver is the safer choice
A hand driver is slower but gives immediate feedback. It is often preferable for small screws, delicate electronics, soft plastics, thin sheet material and the final tightening of any fastener whose head must not be damaged. You can feel whether the screw is entering normally and stop the instant resistance changes.
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Set speed and clutch deliberately
For powered driving, start in the low gear and at a low trigger speed. Bosch advises that the correct torque setting helps prevent stripped screw heads and damaged materials; slower speed is especially useful on sensitive workpieces. Set the clutch low enough that it slips when the screw is seated, then increase only if the fastener stops before reaching the intended depth.
There is no universal clutch number. Numbered settings differ between tools, and the required torque depends on the screw, material, pilot-hole size and thread engagement. Begin conservatively, test on scrap or an inconspicuous location when practical, and stop once the head is seated or the specified depth is reached. Do not keep pulling the trigger after the clutch clicks repeatedly; that wastes bit life and can still damage a marginal recess.
| Situation | Recommended tool control | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Small or delicate screw | Hand driver or very low-speed drill/driver; low clutch. | Maximizes feel and limits sudden torque. |
| Long screw in wood | Low gear, slow start, clutch increased only as needed. | High resistance can make a fast bit climb out. |
| Hard material with pilot hole | Start slowly and stop at snug; avoid repeated clutch hammering. | The pilot hole lowers resistance, so excess torque is unnecessary. |
| Final seating of a visible fastener | Drive close with the tool, then finish by hand. | Prevents overdriving and gives precise feel. |
Reduce resistance with a correctly sized pilot hole
Direct driving is not always the problem; the material may simply be asking for more torque than the recess can transmit. In wood, plastic and other yielding materials, drill an appropriately sized pilot hole when the screw is large, the material is dense, splitting is possible, or the driver begins to struggle. A pilot hole reduces driving resistance and guides the screw.
The hole must suit both the fastener and the material. Too small leaves nearly all of the thread cutting to the driver; too large removes useful thread engagement. Use the screw’s intended pilot-hole guidance when available, and test on scrap when the material is unfamiliar. DAP’s hinge-repair procedure specifically calls for drilling new pilot holes before reinstalling screws, illustrating how a prepared hole can restore controlled driving in a yielding substrate.
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A pilot hole does not correct a wrong bit, a tilted driver or a damaged screw head. It addresses material resistance; fit and alignment remain the first checks.
A repeatable prevention procedure
- Inspect the fastener. Identify the recess profile and check for paint, debris, burrs, cross-threading or an already rounded head.
- Select the bit family. Use the specified Phillips, JIS, Pozidriv, Torx, tri-point or flathead profile rather than a “close enough” substitute.
- Test neighboring sizes. Choose the largest tip that fills the recess snugly without requiring force or rocking.
- Inspect the bit. Reject tips that are bent, chipped, rounded, twisted or heavily polished. A worn tip cannot maintain full contact.
- Clean and seat. Remove debris, place the bit fully into the recess and verify that it is bottomed and centered.
- Align the shaft. Position the driver directly over the screw so the shaft and fastener share one axis.
- Prepare the material. If wood, plastic or another yielding material resists driving, make a pilot hole sized for the screw and substrate.
- Start slowly. With a drill/driver, select low gear and a low trigger speed. Apply steady, moderate axial pressure.
- Monitor the first turns. If the bit rises, stop immediately. Reseat it, verify the size and alignment, and investigate abnormal resistance.
- Use the clutch. Set torque conservatively, increase only when the screw will not reach the intended position, and stop when the head is snug or the desired depth is reached.
- Finish carefully. For a visible or delicate fastener, complete the final fraction of a turn by hand rather than chasing maximum tightness.
- Check the bit afterward. Replace any tip that has chipped or deformed, and never use a screwdriver as a pry bar or chisel.
What to do when slipping starts
Stop power driving at the first cam-out. Continuing can polish the recess in seconds. Remove the tool, brush out debris and try a fresh bit of the correct profile and size with a hand driver. Recheck that the shaft is straight and that the screw is not entering at an angle.
If the screw encounters abnormal resistance, do not assume the answer is more torque. A cross-threaded or misaligned screw becomes increasingly difficult to tighten and can permanently damage the hole. Back it out, inspect the threads and the pilot hole, correct the alignment and restart. If the screw cannot be backed out without slipping, maintain firm axial pressure and use the best-fitting fresh bit before considering extraction.
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| Symptom | Likely cause | Immediate correction |
|---|---|---|
| Bit wobbles in the recess | Bit too small or wrong profile. | Compare adjacent sizes and switch to the correct standard. |
| Bit will not seat fully | Bit too large, debris in the recess or damaged head. | Clean the recess; try the next smaller correct size. |
| Bit slips only when speed increases | Excessive RPM or insufficient axial pressure. | Reduce speed, hold the shaft straight and press steadily. |
| Screw stops before reaching depth | Material resistance, no pilot hole or cross-threading. | Stop, back out and inspect; drill a suitable pilot hole if appropriate. |
| Fresh screws strip repeatedly | Worn bit, wrong recess family or clutch set too high. | Replace the bit, verify the profile and lower the clutch. |
If the screw is already partially stripped
Partially damaged recess
Stop using the drill. Try a new, correctly sized bit in a hand driver, keeping the shaft exactly on-axis and applying firm but controlled downward pressure. Sometimes a fresh tip can still engage the undamaged portions. Turn slowly and avoid repeated reversals that enlarge the damaged edges.
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If the screw is cross-threaded or meets a hard stop, back it out rather than tightening further. Correct the hole or alignment before reinstalling a replacement fastener.
Fully ruined recess
Once the recess is rounded, ordinary bit changes may not restore engagement. Move to a dedicated extraction method appropriate to the fastener size and the workpiece. The prevention guidance does not establish one universal extractor technique: the safest method depends on access, screw material, surrounding surface and whether the workpiece can tolerate drilling. Protect the surrounding finish, secure the workpiece and follow the extractor manufacturer’s instructions.
Bit condition, storage and maintenance
Inspect tips under good light. A chipped edge, bent shaft, rounded point or visible torsional twist is enough reason to retire the bit from precision driving. Deformed tips promote repeat stripping even when the nominal size is correct.
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- Store profiles and sizes in labeled slots instead of loose in a drawer, where tips can strike one another.
- Do not use a driver bit to pry, scrape or chisel; side loading deforms the tip.
- Replace a bit after a severe cam-out rather than testing it repeatedly on important hardware.
- Carry uncommon profiles when working on electronics or appliances; forcing a familiar Phillips into a tri-point or JIS head is false economy.
Optional grip aids: useful, but not a substitute for fit
DAP’s manufacturer instructions say to “Apply a drop of Liquid Grip to the screw head” and that “This improves grip and reduces stripping.” A friction aid can help with a marginally slipping fastener when the bit and screw are otherwise serviceable. Use it as an optional aid after correcting the profile, size, alignment, seating and torque control.
Grip liquid cannot repair a rounded recess, replace a missing pilot hole or make an angled driver safe. Apply only the amount specified by the product instructions and keep residue away from electrical contacts, finishes and surfaces where contamination matters.
Choosing between common approaches
| Choice | Strength | Limitation | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hand driver | Maximum feel and precise stopping. | Slower and more tiring for many fasteners. | Delicate, small or visible screws; final tightening. |
| Drill/driver with clutch | Fast, repeatable driving when correctly set. | Can strip heads quickly if speed, alignment or torque is wrong. | Repetitive work after testing settings. |
| Standard bit | Simple and inexpensive when new and correctly matched. | Performance falls sharply when worn or mismatched. | Routine driving with good recess access. |
| Grip-coated bit or grip aid | May add friction in a marginal case. | Cannot overcome a wrong profile, tilt or severe damage. | Last-step assistance after core technique is correct. |
| No pilot hole | Fastest setup in soft, forgiving material. | Higher driving resistance and greater splitting or cam-out risk. | Small screws in suitable material when resistance is low. |
| Pilot hole | Guides the screw and lowers driving force. | Requires an extra operation and correct sizing. | Dense or splitting-prone wood, plastic, large screws or high resistance. |
A compact pre-drive checklist
- Is the recess definitely Phillips, JIS, Pozidriv, Torx, tri-point or flathead?
- Does the largest appropriate bit fill the recess without rocking or force?
- Is the recess clean and the bit unworn?
- Can the shaft remain directly in line with the screw?
- Will the material benefit from a correctly sized pilot hole?
- Is the drill/driver in low gear with a conservative clutch setting?
- Will you stop immediately if the bit rises, clicks or encounters abnormal resistance?
Most stripped screws are preventable: match the geometry, keep the force on-axis, reduce material resistance when necessary and let the clutch or your hand stop the drive at snug. Those controls protect both the fastener and the workpiece far more reliably than simply pressing harder.
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