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Why the corona requires a different safety procedure
The solar corona is the Sun’s faint outer atmosphere. It becomes visible to cameras without a solar filter only during the brief total phase of a total eclipse, when the Moon blocks the bright photosphere. The corona is far dimmer than the photosphere, so a filter that is appropriate for partial-eclipse photography would make it extremely difficult to record.
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At every other stage, the uncovered or partially covered photosphere remains dangerous. NASA states: “Looking directly at the Sun is dangerous to your eyes and your camera.” Concentrated sunlight can damage a camera sensor, shutter, internal coatings or electronic components, and an optical system can also concentrate energy at a dangerous point.
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A solar filter is not optional protection for a partially eclipsed Sun. It must be designed for solar imaging and mounted over the front of the complete camera optics. The front position stops the intense radiation before it enters the lens and camera body. A rear-mounted filter is exposed to concentrated light inside the lens and is unsafe; a filter held loosely by hand can shift, fall or leave a gap.
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- SOLAR SAFE TELESCOPE FILTER: Filter conforms to the ISO 12312-2:2015(E) international safety standard for filters directly viewing the Sun. The ideal tool for viewing eclipses, sunspots, or the Sun any day!
- WORKS WITH YOUR EXISTING TELESCOPE, SPOTTING SCOPE, OR DSLR CAMERA: Compatible with objective lenses with an outside diameter of 75mm to 100mm.
- SAFE, SECURE FIT: Adjust the side panels to fit the filter to your telescope or camera and attach the elastic band to secure. When you're done observing, fold the filter flat and store it in the reusable bag.
- SOLAR FILM MADE IN THE USA: Celestron Solar Safe film is produced in the USA by American Paper Optics, one of the suppliers recommended by NASA & the American Astronomical Society for safe solar viewing, & independently tested by a third-party lab.
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The only filter-free interval
During totality, remove the filter only after the Moon has completely covered the bright photosphere. Totality ends at the first return of bright sunlight, sometimes called the second contact’s end or the beginning of the next partial phase. Put the filter back on before that bright photosphere reappears. If you cannot identify and perform that sequence reliably, leave the filter installed and photograph the filtered eclipse instead.
Annular and partial eclipses are different
An annular eclipse never produces a filter-free interval: the Moon appears inside the Sun’s disk, leaving a bright ring of photosphere. A partial eclipse also leaves part of the photosphere exposed throughout. Neither event is safe to photograph without a securely fitted solar filter.
What kind of filter is safe for a camera?
Buy a purpose-built camera solar filter sized for the exact lens or filter-holder system you will use. Solar filters typically attenuate visible and infrared energy by a factor of about 100,000, according to NASA Goddard Space Flight Center guidance. That attenuation is the reason a properly filtered camera can record the bright solar disk without receiving the full intensity of direct sunlight.
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Do not assume that any dark-looking material is suitable. Eclipse glasses are made for unaided eyes, not for the concentrated beam entering a telephoto lens. NASA warns not to look at the Sun through a camera lens, telescope, binoculars or another optical device while wearing eclipse glasses or using a handheld solar viewer; concentrated rays can burn through the viewer.
The American Astronomical Society says special-purpose solar viewers for direct viewing outside totality should conform to ISO 12312-2. Camera filters are a different product category, so confirm that the item is specifically intended for solar imaging and has trustworthy attenuation and certification documentation. The ISO marking on eyewear alone does not prove that a filter is suitable for your camera.
Front-mounted security checklist
- Verify the filter’s stated fit against the lens’s exact front diameter or the manufacturer’s dedicated holder.
- Mount it over the front of the lens before pointing the camera toward the Sun.
- Check that the retaining ring, clamp or holder is fully engaged and cannot rotate or slide off.
- Inspect the material for scratches, tears, pinholes, wrinkles, delamination or light leaking around the edge.
- Do not use an ordinary ND filter, stacked photographic filters, exposed film, smoked glass or a rear-mounted solar filter as a substitute.
- Recheck the mount after moving the tripod, changing focal length or touching the camera.
Choose a lens and frame before eclipse day
Long focal lengths produce a larger solar disk, but they also magnify a smaller portion of the corona and make tracking and framing more difficult. NASA Goddard Space Flight Center guidance says a focal length of about 1,000 mm is easier to frame and can include long coronal streamers. For full-disk corona work on 35 mm-equivalent equipment, keep the focal length roughly below 1,500–1,800 mm.
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The approximate image diameter of the Sun on the focal plane is:
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| Focal length | Approximate solar image diameter | Framing implication |
|---|---|---|
| 500 mm | About 4.6 mm | Leaves more surrounding sky; easier to keep the disk in frame. |
| 1,000 mm | About 9.2 mm | A practical long-lens starting point that can include extended streamers. |
| 1,500 mm | About 13.8 mm | Large disk, but tighter framing and more demanding tracking. |
| 1,800 mm | About 16.5 mm | Near the suggested upper range for full-disk corona work on 35 mm-equivalent equipment. |
Those figures describe the approximate solar image size, not the camera sensor’s field of view. Sensor dimensions, crop factor, aspect ratio and the amount of corona you want around the disk still determine whether the image fits. Test your actual camera and lens with the filter installed before the event.
Wide-angle photography is valid
A telephoto lens is optional. A wide-angle camera can show the eclipsed Sun, landscape, horizon, observers and changing sky together. It will not resolve fine coronal structure like a long lens, but it avoids the narrow field of view and tracking demands of extreme focal lengths. Keep the filter on the wide-angle lens whenever the photosphere is visible, and remove it only for the same complete-totality interval used by a telephoto setup.
Prepare and practice before the eclipse
Totality is short. Treat filter handling, focus, exposure and framing as a rehearsal rather than decisions to make under pressure.
- Install the solar filter before aiming at the Sun. Secure the front mount, inspect its surface and confirm that no light can enter around its edge.
- Practice manual focus with the filter installed. Autofocus can hunt or fail against the low-contrast filtered disk. Set focus deliberately and mark or tape the focus ring if your lens allows it.
- Determine a filtered exposure on an uneclipsed Sun. Use the actual camera, lens, filter, memory card and tripod you will take to the eclipse. Record which combinations keep the solar disk from clipping while preserving useful detail.
- Rehearse the contact sequence. Practice removing the filter only after totality begins, placing it where it cannot be lost, and reinstalling it before bright photosphere returns. A second person can call the contacts, but the photographer remains responsible for the filter.
- Mark controls you must reach quickly. Identify the shutter-speed dial, aperture control, ISO control, manual-focus ring and any exposure-bracketing function without looking away from the camera.
- Test the tripod and delayed release. Tighten every joint, check that the camera does not sag when tilted upward and use a delayed shutter release to reduce vibration.
Exposure settings for the filtered partial phases
NASA’s March 21, 2024 photography guidance suggests starting around f/8 to f/16 with trial shutter speeds from approximately 1/1,000 second to 1/4 second for filtered partial phases. These are starting points, not universal settings. Haze, thin cloud, altitude, filter transmission, lens aperture and camera model change the result, so bracket exposures rather than trusting one number.
| Phase | Filter state | NASA starting guidance | How to use it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Uneclipsed or partially eclipsed Sun | Securely mounted front solar filter | Approximately f/8–f/16; 1/1,000–1/4 s trial range | Practice beforehand, then bracket for haze and clouds. |
| Totality of a total eclipse | Filter removed only while the photosphere is completely covered | Keep aperture fixed; bracket approximately 1/1,000–1 s | Use a sequence of shutter speeds because the corona spans a very large brightness range. |
| Partial or annular phases after totality | Front solar filter replaced before bright photosphere returns | Return to the filtered workflow | There is no safe filter-free interval for an annular eclipse. |
What about ISO?
There is no single ISO value established for every camera, lens, filter and sky condition. Set ISO during your pre-eclipse filtered tests and keep a written or photographed record of the combinations that work. During totality, preserve the fixed aperture requested by your workflow and use shutter-speed bracketing first; change ISO only as part of a deliberate, rehearsed sequence. The correct choice depends on the camera’s noise performance, the filter’s transmission and the brightness of the corona in your conditions.
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- Black polymer is the most common filtering material for observing sunspots and granulation, through telescopes and binoculars.
- These sheets are a quality product of Thousand Oaks Optical, Arizona, a manufacturer of safe solar filters for over 30 years. "Stronger than Mylar with the filtering properties protected within the substrate. Guaranteed five years."
- Make a filter on your own for any telescope / binoculars / camera, and for a fraction of what factory made filters cost.
- The sun will appear in a natural orange color when viewed through your telescope using this filter.
- WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FILTER IS WELL ATTACHED TO THE TELESCOPE/BINOCULARS, USING STICKY TAPE, TO KEEP IT FROM FALLING WHILE OBSERVING!
Why one totality exposure cannot capture the whole corona
The inner corona is much brighter than the outer streamers. A short exposure can preserve detail close to the lunar limb while leaving the outer streamers faint; a long exposure can reveal streamers while overexposing the inner region. NASA therefore suggests bracketing approximately 1/1,000 second through 1 second during totality while keeping the aperture fixed. A sequence gives you options across the corona’s dynamic range; one exposure cannot record all of it equally well.
How to remove and replace the filter safely
Filter handling is the highest-risk moment because the camera may be pointed toward the Sun while the protection is changing. Practice until the motion is quick, positive and repeatable.
- Before totality: keep the filter mounted and photograph the partial phase. Do not loosen it in anticipation.
- At the start of totality: remove the front filter only when the Moon completely covers the bright photosphere. Do not remove it merely because the Sun looks mostly covered through the filtered view.
- Secure the removed filter: place it in a rigid, clean container or a predetermined pocket where it cannot be scratched, blown away or confused with another accessory.
- Photograph the corona: run the rehearsed bracket while monitoring the remaining totality time. Keep the camera on its tripod and avoid changing focal length unless the sequence explicitly requires it.
- Before bright light returns: reinstall the filter over the front of the lens. Do this before the first bright photospheric bead or arc appears at the lunar edge.
- Confirm the mount: check that the filter is fully seated before continuing with partial-phase images.
If clouds obscure the contacts or you are uncertain whether totality has begun or ended, keep the filter on. A missed unfiltered frame is preferable to exposing the camera or your eyes to direct sunlight.
Tripod, vibration and camera operation
A tripod helps keep a long-lens composition stable and makes it easier to repeat the same framing through a bracket. A delayed shutter release reduces vibration from pressing the shutter button. These accessories support the safety workflow but do not replace the solar filter.
- Lock the tripod head after framing, then verify that the lens does not slowly droop.
- Use the camera’s delayed release for filtered partial images and any totality exposures where the timing permits.
- Keep spare batteries and memory capacity available, because a bracketed sequence uses more exposures than a single setting.
- Do not look through an optical viewfinder at the Sun unless the entire optical path is protected by a proper front-mounted solar filter. A live-view screen is not a substitute for safe camera filtering when the lens is unfiltered.
Choosing between a long-lens setup and a wide-angle setup
| Choice | Strengths | Limitations | Best preparation priority |
|---|---|---|---|
| Long telephoto, around 1,000 mm | Large solar disk and potential to include long coronal streamers. | Narrower field, harder tracking and more demanding focus and tripod stability. | Rehearse framing and contact-time filter handling. |
| Very long telephoto, roughly 1,500–1,800 mm | Maximum disk size within the cited full-disk range. | Magnifies a smaller part of the corona; framing and tracking become difficult. | Check sensor coverage and test tripod rigidity carefully. |
| Wide-angle lens | Includes landscape and people; easier framing and tracking. | Corona occupies fewer pixels and fine streamers are less resolved. | Plan the composition and use a properly fitted front filter during every bright phase. |
Cost is not a reliable safety indicator. A less expensive wide-angle setup with a correctly fitted purpose-built filter is safer than an expensive telephoto setup with an improvised or loose filter. The safety-critical purchase is the front-mounted solar filter; a tripod and delayed release are useful supporting accessories.
Common unsafe approaches and the correction
“Can I photograph the corona without a solar filter?”
Only during totality of a total solar eclipse, after the Moon completely covers the photosphere. Keep the filter on for every partial phase and for all annular eclipses. Replace it immediately when bright sunlight returns.
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- Black polymer is the most common filtering material for observing sunspots and granulation, through telescopes and binoculars.
- These sheets are a quality product of Thousand Oaks Optical, Arizona, a manufacturer of safe solar filters for over 30 years. "Stronger than Mylar with the filtering properties protected within the substrate. Guaranteed five years."
- Make a filter on your own for any telescope / binoculars / camera, and for a fraction of what factory made filters cost.
- The sun will appear in a natural orange color when viewed through your telescope using this filter.
- WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FILTER IS WELL ATTACHED TO THE TELESCOPE/BINOCULARS, USING STICKY TAPE, TO KEEP IT FROM FALLING WHILE OBSERVING!
“Can I put eclipse glasses over the lens?”
No. Eclipse glasses are for unaided eyes. They are not designed to withstand the concentrated rays entering a camera lens, and NASA specifically warns against using eclipse glasses or a handheld solar viewer while looking through a camera, telescope or binoculars.
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No. Use a product specifically designed for solar imaging with documented attenuation and a secure front mount. Darkness to the eye does not establish safe visible and infrared transmission for a camera.
“Can the filter go behind the lens?”
No. A rear-mounted filter allows concentrated sunlight to travel through the unfiltered lens before it is stopped, creating a dangerous heat and light concentration inside the optical system. The solar filter belongs over the front of the lens.
“What if my filter has a tiny pinhole or tear?”
Do not use it. Scratches, pinholes, tears, wrinkles, edge gaps and loose mounts are reasons to replace or refit the filter before aiming at the Sun.
“Should I remove the filter as soon as the Sun is almost covered?”
No. “Almost covered” is still partial eclipse. Remove it only after complete photosphere coverage at totality. If the event is annular, never remove it at all.
A practical event-day checklist
- Purpose-built solar-imaging filter sized for the exact lens, with documented suitability and secure front mounting.
- Filter inspected for pinholes, tears, scratches and edge gaps.
- Manual focus practiced and marked.
- Filtered partial-phase exposures tested at approximately f/8–f/16 and a 1/1,000–1/4-second trial range.
- Totality bracket rehearsed across approximately 1/1,000 second to 1 second with the aperture fixed.
- Tripod tightened and delayed shutter release configured.
- Filter-removal container and replacement sequence rehearsed.
- Clear decision: filter remains on for partial and annular phases; it comes off only for complete totality.
What the camera can and cannot guarantee
NASA and the American Astronomical Society provide the safety rules and exposure starting points, but no universal camera setting works for every lens, filter, camera, weather condition or eclipse. Marketplace inventory and commercial filter quality also change, so verify the current listing’s dimensions, solar-imaging purpose and documentation before purchase. A correct procedure matters more than a particular camera model: front-mounted protection for bright phases, a practiced manual workflow, and immediate replacement of the filter at the end of totality.
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