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The safe sequence is simple but absolute: keep a purpose-made solar filter secured over the front of your camera lens before first contact and throughout every partial phase. Remove it only after the Moon completely covers the Sun’s bright face during totality, then replace it the instant any bright photosphere reappears. Eclipse glasses protect unaided eyes; they are not camera filters. Rehearse your controls and filter handling before eclipse day, because totality is brief and the corona requires a range of exposures.
This guide follows the eclipse chronologically, explains the equipment choices that matter, and gives a practical camera workflow for interchangeable-lens cameras, compact cameras with manual controls, and smartphones.
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The non-negotiable safety rule
A camera lens concentrates sunlight just as a magnifying glass does. During the partial phases, that concentrated light can damage the camera and your eyes if you look through the optical viewfinder. A solar filter designed for optical equipment must cover the front of the lens. It must fit that lens and remain securely attached.
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NASA Science’s Eclipse Viewing Safety guidance states: "You can view the eclipse directly without proper eye protection only when the Moon completely obscures the Sun’s bright face – during the brief and spectacular period known as totality." For photography, the equivalent boundary is the filter: it comes off only while the bright face is completely hidden and goes back on before sunlight returns.
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- Black polymer is the most common filtering material for observing sunspots and granulation, through telescopes and binoculars.
- These sheets are a quality product of Thousand Oaks Optical, Arizona, a manufacturer of safe solar filters for over 30 years. "Stronger than Mylar with the filtering properties protected within the substrate. Guaranteed five years."
- Make a filter on your own for any telescope / binoculars / camera, and for a fraction of what factory made filters cost.
- The sun will appear in a natural orange color when viewed through your telescope using this filter.
- WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FILTER IS WELL ATTACHED TO THE TELESCOPE/BINOCULARS, USING STICKY TAPE, TO KEEP IT FROM FALLING WHILE OBSERVING!
- Never substitute ordinary photographic neutral-density, polarizing, or other dark filters for a purpose-made solar filter.
- Never stretch eclipse glasses over a camera lens. They are made for direct viewing by the unaided eye, not for the concentrated beam entering camera optics.
- Never look through a camera, binocular, or telescope while wearing eclipse glasses. The optical instrument can focus sunlight onto the glasses and your eyes.
- If you are outside the path of totality, the Moon never fully covers the bright face. Keep the camera filter on for the entire event.
Follow the eclipse phase by phase
Before first contact
Install and check the solar filter before the Moon first touches the Sun’s disk. The filter should cover the objective end of the lens, not merely the rear of the camera. Confirm that it cannot slide, tilt, or blow off, and make sure the lens hood or other accessory does not prevent a complete seal. If the filter has an orientation or installation instruction, follow that instruction exactly.
Set up the camera while the filter is fitted. Choose the focal length and framing you want, focus as appropriate for your camera, and verify that the exposure controls you intend to use are accessible. The goal is to make every change during the eclipse deliberate rather than exploratory.
Partial phases
Keep the filter in place from first contact through the entire partial progression. This includes the moments immediately before totality, when the remaining crescent becomes very thin but is still intensely bright. Do not remove the filter because the scene looks dim through the viewfinder or screen; the danger is determined by the Sun’s surface brightness, not by how small the crescent appears.
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The start of totality
Remove the camera’s solar filter only when the Moon completely covers the Sun’s bright face. The American Astronomical Society (AAS) notes that a filter should be secure during the partial phase but removable at the beginning of totality. NASA’s photography guidance likewise calls for removing all solar filters during totality so the corona can be recorded.
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- SOLAR SAFE TELESCOPE FILTER: Filter conforms to the ISO 12312-2:2015(E) international safety standard for filters directly viewing the Sun. The ideal tool for viewing eclipses, sunspots, or the Sun any day!
- WORKS WITH YOUR EXISTING TELESCOPE, SPOTTING SCOPE, OR DSLR CAMERA: Compatible with objective lenses with an outside diameter of 75mm to 100mm.
- SAFE, SECURE FIT: Adjust the side panels to fit the filter to your telescope or camera and attach the elastic band to secure. When you're done observing, fold the filter flat and store it in the reusable bag.
- SOLAR FILM MADE IN THE USA: Celestron Solar Safe film is produced in the USA by American Paper Optics, one of the suppliers recommended by NASA & the American Astronomical Society for safe solar viewing, & independently tested by a third-party lab.
- GREAT VIEWS AND IMAGES: This filter features an orange tint, producing a natural look perfect for visual observing and capturing images through your telescope, spotting scope, or DSLR camera.
Do not use a predicted clock time as the sole trigger. Use the actual appearance of totality at your location: the bright photosphere must be gone. If any bright portion remains, the filter stays on.
During totality
With the filter off, photograph the corona and other totality features your framing permits. The corona is much fainter than the photosphere and has a broad brightness range, so one exposure cannot preserve every detail. NASA recommends keeping the aperture setting fixed and bracketing shutter speeds. In practice, make a planned sequence from shorter to longer exposures rather than changing several controls at once. The exact shutter values depend on the camera, lens, sensor, and the corona’s appearance; there is no universal setting that can be stated safely for every kit.
Keep the filter immediately at hand while shooting. Totality can end sooner than expected because of your location, terrain, or an imperfect estimate of the contact time. Do not become so absorbed in the display that you miss the return of direct sunlight.
The end of totality
As soon as any bright part of the Sun reappears, stop the unfiltered sequence and put the solar filter back over the front of the lens. If you are viewing the eclipse directly, put your eclipse glasses back on at the same moment. The first reappearance is enough; do not wait for the Sun to become obviously bright.
What counts as a proper camera solar filter?
Choose a filter specifically made for solar observation or solar photography and sized for the exact lens you will use. It must attach securely to the front of that lens. A filter that is optically suitable but loose is not safe, and a filter that fits a different lens cannot be assumed to protect your current setup.
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- Black polymer is the most common filtering material for observing sunspots and granulation, through telescopes and binoculars.
- These sheets are a quality product of Thousand Oaks Optical, Arizona, a manufacturer of safe solar filters for over 30 years. "Stronger than Mylar with the filtering properties protected within the substrate. Guaranteed five years."
- Make a filter on your own for any telescope / binoculars / camera, and for a fraction of what factory made filters cost.
- The sun will appear in a natural orange color when viewed through your telescope using this filter.
- WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FILTER IS WELL ATTACHED TO THE TELESCOPE/BINOCULARS, USING STICKY TAPE, TO KEEP IT FROM FALLING WHILE OBSERVING!
Filter options and handling trade-offs
| Filter approach | What matters | Handling consideration |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose-made front lens filter | Solar-rated optical material, correct diameter or mount, and a secure attachment | The essential choice for all partial phases; inspect the fit before the event |
| Screw-on solar filter | Correct thread size and an undamaged thread | AAS notes that unscrewing can be awkward when totality begins and quickly reinstalling it when totality ends |
| Magnetic or other quick-release solar filter | Solar suitability, a reliable magnetic or mechanical connection, and compatibility with the lens | May be easier to remove and replace, but convenience never compensates for a weak or ill-fitting attachment |
| Eclipse glasses placed over a lens | Not a camera-filter solution | Do not use; glasses are for direct unaided viewing only |
| Ordinary neutral-density or polarizing filter | Not designed as a solar filter | Do not improvise with it, alone or stacked with other photographic filters |
Availability of a particular size or attachment style can vary. Prioritize proper solar use, exact lens fit, secure retention, and handling you can perform confidently. Read the filter maker’s instructions and ask an experienced astronomy or camera specialist if you are unsure whether a product is intended for solar optical use.
Inspect and rehearse the attachment
- Fit the filter to the lens you will actually use, not just to a similar lens.
- Gently test the attachment from several angles. It should not wobble, rotate freely, or lift when the camera is moved.
- Practice removing it and putting it back without touching the glass or changing your framing unnecessarily.
- Store it where you can reach it instantly during totality, with its protective cover ready for the periods when it is off the lens.
Prepare the camera before eclipse day
Use manual control where your camera allows it
NASA notes that almost any camera with manual controls can photograph an eclipse. Manual exposure prevents the camera from reacting unpredictably as the scene changes from a bright filtered Sun to a dark totality landscape and back again. Learn where the aperture, shutter speed, focus, and flash controls are located; then practice changing them while the camera is mounted and the filter is fitted.
Do not assume that a setting that works for one camera will work for another. The evidence does not establish universal exposure numbers, and the correct values depend on the lens, sensor, aperture, and the particular phase. A rehearsal should teach you the sequence of operations, not promise a single magic setting.
Choose focal length for the image you want
A longer focal length makes the solar image larger, while a shorter lens includes more of the surrounding landscape. The right framing depends on whether your priority is a close disk and corona or a wider scene showing the changing light.
| Lens example | Solar-image example in the NASA-hosted guide | How to interpret it |
|---|---|---|
| 50 mm | Approximately 0.5 mm | A small disk suitable to a wider composition, depending on the camera and framing |
| 200 mm telephoto or zoom | Approximately 1.9 mm | A larger disk with more room for a surrounding scene than a very long lens |
| 500 mm mirror lens | Approximately 4.6 mm | A substantially larger disk for a tighter view |
These figures come from Fred Espenak’s NASA-hosted Solar Eclipse Photography guide, adapted from NASA RP 1383 material dated April 1996. They are illustrative examples, not guarantees for every sensor, crop factor, camera body, or recording format.
Rank #4
- Silver-black polymer is the most common filtering material for observing sunspots and granulation, through telescopes and binoculars
- Make a filter on your own for any telescope / binoculars / camera, and for a fraction of what factory made filters cost.
- The sun will appear in a natural orange color when viewed through your telescope using this filter.
- WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FILTER IS WELL ATTACHED TO THE TELESCOPE/BINOCULARS, USING STICKY TAPE, TO KEEP IT FROM FALLING WHILE OBSERVING.
Disable flash and verify the controls
Turn the flash off, especially on an automatic camera. In the dim surroundings of an eclipse, an automatic flash can fire and add unwanted light to a scene. Confirm that the camera is recording to the intended card or storage, that the battery is charged, and that the controls you practiced have not been reset by a mode change. These checks support the safety workflow but do not replace the front-mounted solar filter.
Exposure strategy for the corona
The corona extends far beyond the brilliant edge of the hidden Sun, but its inner and outer regions do not have the same brightness. NASA’s recommended starting strategy is to hold the aperture constant and bracket shutter speeds. Keeping the aperture fixed means the lens opening does not change while you build a sequence; varying shutter speed then samples different brightness levels.
A practical bracketing routine
- Before the eclipse, decide the aperture you will keep fixed and practice locating shutter-speed controls by touch or from the live-view display.
- At totality, remove the filter only after the bright face is completely covered.
- Make a sequence of shutter speeds, recording several shorter exposures and then progressively longer ones. The exact values must be determined for your equipment; no single set is universal.
- Review the histogram or highlights only if doing so does not distract you from the sky and the approaching end of totality.
- When bright sunlight returns, stop the sequence immediately and reinstall the filter.
Bracketing is especially important because a single exposure can preserve either the bright inner corona or fainter outer structure, but not necessarily both. The method gives you a range from which to select images later without pretending that one preset fits every eclipse.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Smartphone eclipse photography
NASA’s total-eclipse FAQ answers "Can I photograph the eclipse with my smartphone?" with yes, provided a specialized eclipse filter is between the phone’s camera and the Sun. The same phase rule applies to a phone as to a dedicated camera: use the filter throughout every partial phase, remove it only during totality if you are inside the path, and replace it as soon as the bright Sun returns.
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Repair common Windows errors and clear accumulated junk for a smoother, more stable PC - no reinstall needed.Free scan · no reinstallA phone’s small lens does not make the unfiltered partial Sun safe. The filter must be positioned so it covers the camera that is actually being used and must stay in place while you compose. If the phone switches between cameras as you zoom, check that the filter still covers the active optical path; if it does not, stop and re-cover the camera before continuing.
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- [ALILUSSO Imaging Filter] The Filter for smartphones allows you to capture events safely and in clear detail. Whether it's the partial phases, the breathtaking diamond ring effect, or the ethereal corona during totality, our filter is designed to help you capture each stage effectively.
- [Protect your smartphone camera] We prioritize your safety while photographing the sun. The ALILUSSO Smartphone Photo Filter is a imaging filter that protects your smartphone camera from harmful rays, so you can focus on capturing the event's wonder without worry.
- [How to Use the Filter] Step 1: Place the filter over your smartphone's camera lens. Pro Tip: for best results remove your phone case. Step 2: Locate the sun in the frame, zoom in, and steady your hands. Step 3: Tap on the sun on your screen to lock focus and exposure. Step 4: Use your phone's camera settings to reduce the exposure. Then, take the picture.
- Create memories that last a lifetime and share the wonder of events with friends and family. The ALILUSSO Smartphone Photo Filter's high-quality film allows you to showcase your event photos with pride and awe.
- [WARNING] This is a smartphone filter only. Not for direct eye viewing. Looking directly at the sun, even through this filter, can cause permanent blindness and eye damage. For use by persons ages 18 and older only.
A complete eclipse-day workflow
1. Set up before first contact
- Mount or hold the camera in the composition you practiced.
- Attach the purpose-made solar filter to the front of the lens and test that it is secure.
- Select the focal length for a close or wide composition.
- Set the controls you rehearsed, disable flash, and confirm the camera is ready to record.
2. Photograph the partial phase
- Leave the filter on for every partial image, including the thin crescent immediately before totality.
- Use live view or an electronic display when possible; never look through an optical finder at the Sun.
- Do not remove the filter merely because the camera display looks dark.
3. Confirm totality before removing the filter
- Wait until the Moon completely covers the Sun’s bright face at your location.
- Remove the filter and place it where you can retrieve it instantly.
- Begin the fixed-aperture, varied-shutter-speed sequence for the corona.
4. Replace the filter at the first return of sunlight
- Watch for any bright photospheric edge, not a fully bright Sun.
- Stop unfiltered photography immediately.
- Reinstall the filter securely before taking another image.
Common mistakes and how to recover
Removing the filter during a partial phase
Do not rely on the camera’s dark preview or on the apparent size of the remaining crescent. If the bright face is not completely covered, the filter belongs on the lens. If you realize the filter has come off, point the camera away from the Sun, replace it before resuming, and do not look through the optical finder.
Using eclipse glasses as a lens filter
Glasses are engineered for a person looking directly at the Sun without magnifying optics. They do not provide the correct protection when placed over a camera lens, and they can be dislodged. Use a solar filter made for the camera lens instead.
Waiting too long to reinstall
The end of totality is defined by the first reappearance of the bright photosphere, not by the moment the scene feels fully daylight-bright. Keep the filter in reach and rehearse the replacement movement so it takes seconds, not a search through a bag.
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Changing too many exposure controls at once
The corona’s range of brightness calls for a controlled bracket. If you change aperture, shutter speed, and other controls together, you lose the ability to understand which exposure produced each result and waste scarce totality time. Fix the aperture as NASA recommends and vary shutter speed in a planned sequence.
Assuming a long lens is automatically better
A longer focal length enlarges the Sun but narrows the composition and demands more precise handling. A shorter lens may better suit a landscape or environmental scene. Select the focal length according to the image you want, using the guide’s 50 mm, 200 mm, and 500 mm examples as scale references rather than promises about your own camera.
Decision checklist before you travel
- Location: Are you inside the path of totality? If not, plan to keep the filter on for the entire eclipse.
- Lens: Does the purpose-made solar filter fit the exact front of the lens you will use?
- Attachment: Can you verify that it is secure, remove it quickly at totality, and replace it immediately afterward?
- Controls: Have you practiced aperture and shutter-speed changes, and disabled flash?
- Framing: Does your chosen focal length match a close solar disk or a wider scene?
- Timing: Will you identify totality by the Moon fully covering the bright face, rather than by a clock estimate alone?
- Eyes: Will you use eclipse glasses for direct viewing during every partial phase and put them back on when sunlight returns?
The filter rule is the part that cannot be compromised: front-mounted solar protection for every partial phase, no filter only during genuine totality, and immediate replacement at the first bright return. Build your camera settings and composition around that sequence, and use a fixed aperture with shutter-speed bracketing to give the corona the range of exposures it needs.
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