The most reliable way to make a Khazalite Holds collection look like one army is to lock four decisions before painting the first unit: one armour metal, one dark recess shade, one stone colour and one leather colour. Repeat those choices on every warscroll, then reserve a single accent colour for shields, cloth and selected runes. The result reflects the faction’s forge, karak, ancestor-god and underground-stone themes without making every model identical.
This is an editorial scheme rather than a studio-mandated recipe. Games Workshop revealed the Khazalite Holds on 18 September 2026, but no complete Khazalite-specific paint formula has been published in the material available for this guide.
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What makes a Khazalite Holds army look unified?
Khazalite Holds are a new duardin faction built around mountain karaks, upper halls, underground “deeps,” ancestor-god remembrance and a great forge described as the hold’s pounding heart. The range combines conventional armoured warriors with stone-bodied constructs, artillery, rune specialists and named leaders. That variety is exactly why a shared visual system matters.
Use the same foundation on every model, regardless of whether the surface is plate, leather, carved stone or a gun carriage. A Clanshield, a Gholem of Gazul, an Oathkeeper Cannon and a Valayan Guardian can then differ in silhouette and role while still reading as one host across the tabletop.
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- Armour: one main metal across all units.
- Recesses: one dark shade for panel lines, joints and deep texture.
- Stone: one slate, granite or similar neutral for constructs and bases.
- Leather: one brown or near-black leather for straps, gloves and pouches.
- Accent: one warm red, ochre or cool teal for shields, cloth panels and selected runes.
Keep those five decisions constant. Variation should come from where the accent appears, not from changing the underlying army identity every time you start a new box.
Choose the foundation palette before opening a unit box
Armour metal: warm bronze or iron
A warm bronze makes the forge theme immediately visible and separates Khazalite armour from a cold, purely industrial army. Iron or dark steel gives a harder, more subterranean appearance. Either works; the important choice is to use one main metal everywhere.
If you choose bronze, apply it to plate, helmets, weapon heads and the major artillery fittings. If you choose iron, keep bronze or brass for small trim only, otherwise the army can lose its single dominant metal identity. A dark metallic base followed by a brighter edge highlight gives readable armour without requiring a different recipe for every warscroll.
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Recess shade: one dark colour with a clear purpose
Use one dark brown-black or blue-black shade in armour joints, under overlapping plates, between stone slabs and around leather attachments. Brown-black keeps bronze warm; blue-black makes iron look colder. Apply it consistently rather than alternating washes by unit.
On large flat armour, avoid flooding the entire panel if the shade pools visibly. Put it into the recesses with a controlled brush, then clean the raised surface with the original armour colour. This single step is the visual bridge between infantry, constructs and artillery.
Stone: slate or granite that also works on bases
Choose a mid-to-dark grey with enough contrast against the armour. Slate reads as layered underground rock; granite can be warmer and more compatible with bronze. Use the same stone family on Gholem bodies, carved runes, artillery masonry and the bases. A lighter drybrush on the raised texture is sufficient for Battle Ready results.
Leather: a repeatable neutral
Pick one dark leather colour for belts, straps, gloves, pouches and scabbards. Dark umber is forgiving beside bronze; black-brown gives a more severe look. Do not introduce a different leather shade for each clan. If you want additional depth, change only the highlight, not the base colour.
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Red, ochre and teal are practical choices because each contrasts with a bronze or iron foundation and remains visible at gaming distance. Use the accent on shield faces, cloth panels, banners, gem settings and a minority of runes. Keeping it selective prevents the army from becoming a collection of unrelated bright spots.
Use a 70/20/10 distribution to control variety
A useful painter’s heuristic is 70/20/10: roughly 70 percent foundation colours (metal, stone, leather and dark recesses), 20 percent secondary neutrals such as a lighter stone or a second metal for trim, and 10 percent accent colour. This is not a published Khazalite statistic; it is a practical way to stop accents from overwhelming the forge-and-stone identity.
| Area | What stays constant | What may vary |
|---|---|---|
| Armour and weapons | Main metal and recess shade | Small trim or a limited highlight metal |
| Stone and bases | Stone family, drybrush and texture | Optional tufts or mineral flecks kept to the same neutral range |
| Leather | Base leather colour | Highlight intensity on leaders or veterans |
| Cloth and shields | Accent family | Different placement or a lighter/darker value for a clan |
| Runes and gems | Accent hue or a closely related glow | Brightness according to model importance |
Make a test model and write the recipe down
Do not begin with a whole unit. Paint one ordinary infantry model from sprue to finished base, photograph it in neutral light and record every product and order. The test model should include metal, leather, stone, cloth, a rune and a base so it exposes problems before batch painting.
- Prime the model. Use an undercoat that lets your chosen metal and accent remain distinct. A dark primer speeds up deep recesses; a light primer produces brighter accent colours.
- Block the foundation. Paint armour and weapons in the chosen metal, leather in the shared brown or black-brown, and stone in the selected slate or granite.
- Apply the recess shade. Work it into joints, undersides and texture. Let it dry fully before correcting any tide marks.
- Restore broad surfaces. Reapply the base metal, stone and leather to the raised areas, leaving the shade visible in the gaps.
- Add the accent. Paint one shield or cloth panel and a few runes. Check that the colour is visible but not dominant.
- Highlight deliberately. Pick out armour edges, stone ridges and leather corners with lighter versions of the same colours.
- Finish the base. Use the same texture, drybrush and rim colour you plan to use on the entire collection.
Write the sequence in plain language, including dilution, drying time and which details receive the accent. A written formula is more valuable than trying to remember it after several weeks away from the army.
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Choose a Battle Ready workflow: Classic or Contrast
Games Workshop’s Battle Ready guidance defines a finished model as one with its main areas coloured and a simple completed base. The Classic method uses Base, Shade and Technical paints. The Contrast method uses Contrast and Technical paints over an appropriate undercoat. Both can produce a coherent Khazalite force; they differ mainly in speed, opacity and edge control.
| Method | Best for | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Classic: Base, Shade, highlight | Armour panels, clean shields and display-focused leaders | Predictable opacity, crisp colour boundaries and precise edge highlights | More steps and slower coverage on large units |
| Contrast over a suitable undercoat | Leather, textured stone, straps and fast infantry batches | Rapid colour and shading in one pass on textured surfaces | Less control on broad flat plates; pooling must be corrected |
| Hybrid | Most collections | Contrast for texture, Classic metals and controlled accents | Requires testing so finishes do not look unrelated |
For a mixed army, a hybrid workflow is often the safest: use a controlled Base-and-Shade process for the main metal, then use a fast textured approach for leather and stone. Keep the final highlight and basing treatment identical even when the underpainting method changes.
Paint each material in a repeatable order
Armour and weapons
- Cover all plate, helmets, weapon heads and major fittings with the foundation metal.
- Shade panel lines, rivets, joints and the underside of overlapping plates.
- Re-establish the metal on broad raised areas, leaving the dark line visible.
- Edge-highlight the helmet brow, shoulder rims, shield rims and prominent weapon edges.
- On leaders, add a second, brighter highlight only to the most exposed edges; do not give every rank-and-file model a different metal recipe.
Leather and rope
Paint belts, gloves, straps, pouches and scabbards in the shared leather colour before adding metal buckles. Shade beneath overlaps and where straps meet armour. A small, lighter line on the upper edge is enough to separate leather from dark recesses. If you use Contrast for leather, prevent pooling on flat pouches by pulling excess paint toward the edges while it is still wet.
Stone bodies and masonry
Apply the stone colour to Gholems, carved slabs, mortar components and scenic rocks. Shade cracks and deep cuts, then drybrush a lighter stone across raised surfaces. Keep the drybrush direction consistent on all stone models; random heavy strokes can make one construct look chalky beside another.
Runes, gems and forge details
Use the army accent for runes and gems sparingly. Paint a dark foundation first, place the accent in the recess, then add a tiny lighter dot or line on the upper edge. Runewrights and named characters can receive more luminous details, but their glow should still be the same hue seen on ordinary shields and weapons.
Cloth, shields and banners
Cloth is where clan identity can show. Keep the same accent family, but alter its value or placement: a darker red for one clan, a lighter ochre panel for another, or a teal border around otherwise identical shields. Repeat each variation on at least two units so it reads as an intentional sub-group rather than an accidental one-off.
Keep clan and unit accents readable
When choosing an accent, test it beside the actual metal and leather, not on a white palette. The decision is about contrast, repeatability and role recognition.
| Accent family | Against warm bronze | Against iron | Useful placement | Risk to control |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Deep red | Strong, warm separation | Very high contrast | Shields, cloth panels and banners | Too much red can overpower the metal |
| Ochre or muted yellow | Forge-like and highly visible | Clear but less harsh | Trim, runes and clan markings | Bright yellow can look disconnected from stone |
| Teal or blue-green | Cool counterpoint to bronze | Distinctive against dark iron | Gems, rune glow and selected cloth | Keep saturation consistent across units |
Use the same accent on a shield face, a cloth panel and one small rune before deciding whether it works. If the rune disappears, brighten the accent or place a light underpaint beneath it. If every eye goes to the cloth before the face and weapon, reduce saturation or limit the area.
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Unit-by-unit application across the range
Clanshields
Use Clanshields as the reference unit for the army. Their armour, leather, shields and bases should establish the exact recipe that later units copy. Paint a repeatable shield design rather than a unique illustration on every model.
Gholems of Gazul and Gholems of Valaya
Let stone dominate the bodies, but retain the shared metal on armour plates, tools or fittings and the same accent in runes. The alternative Gholem build can therefore belong to the same force without needing a new palette.
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Oathkeeper Cannon or Stonebreaker Mortar
Use the infantry metal on the weapon and crew equipment, and the army stone on any masonry or scenic components. A single accent stripe or shield panel on the crew ties the artillery piece to the rest of the host.
Clangunners
Repeat the armour and leather recipe on firearms, ammunition pouches and gloves. Keep muzzle effects or special markings subordinate to the established accent so the unit does not become a separate colour block.
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Apply the same foundation to their distinctive armour and equipment. If their poses expose more cloth, use the accent on one controlled panel rather than adding several new colours.
Runewrights
Runewrights are ideal for showing the accent and rune treatment at a higher intensity. Brighten the same hue used elsewhere, but preserve the army’s metal, leather and basing so the specialists remain part of the host.
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Give the leader a brighter edge highlight, a larger accent area or a richer stone detail instead of inventing a completely new colour. A restrained increase in contrast marks command status while preserving the shared visual grammar.
Valayan Guardians
Keep the same base and foundation colours even if you emphasize their relationship to Valaya with additional runes or a clan accent. The repeated stone and leather are more important to army cohesion than making every elite model identical to the infantry.
Integrate Grimmdron, the Fyreslayer models
The Khazalite battletome incorporates the Fyreslayers under the name Grimmdron, and the reveal confirms that existing Fyreslayer miniatures can be used. Their exposed skin, flame motifs and established sculpt language can remain distinctive; trying to repaint every signature feature into the Khazalite scheme can make them look less authentic.
Instead, unify them at the points the whole army shares:
- Use the Khazalite basing texture, drybrush and rim colour.
- Paint their armour and weapons with the same main metal where practical.
- Repeat the Khazalite accent on shields, cloth, gems or selected runes.
- Keep a consistent recess shade on metal and equipment.
- Use the same leather colour on straps, pouches and gloves whenever the sculpt allows it.
Their skin and flame details can stay more prominent than on a stone construct. The repeated bases and foundation colours supply the alliance-level cohesion without erasing the models’ identity.
Build bases that connect forge, karak and deeps
A shared base is one of the fastest ways to unify models painted months apart. Texture every base with the same rocky material, then drybrush the same lighter stone and finish the rim in one consistent dark neutral. Add metallic debris, carved fragments or small mineral flecks only if they stay within the palette.
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Use the same method on infantry, artillery and large constructs. A different base texture for each unit breaks the army into visual islands, even when the armour recipe is perfect. If you want clan markers, place a tiny accent rune or painted shard on the base rather than changing the entire ground colour.
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Organize the shopping list by function rather than by unit:
- One spray or brush-on undercoat.
- One main armour metal and, optionally, one brighter highlight metal.
- One dark recess shade.
- One stone base colour and one lighter stone for drybrushing.
- One leather colour and a lighter leather highlight.
- One accent colour plus a lighter version for runes or gems.
- One technical basing texture and one drybrush colour.
- Brushes for basecoating, controlled detail and edge highlights.
The current Warhammer Colour range is organized into Base/Layer, Contrast, Shade, Technical and Spray categories. The Paint Warhammer app includes painting guides, project tracking, inventory and a comparison tool, which can help you record the exact recipe and identify gaps before a batch session. A Warhammer Colour paint set may be a convenient starting point, but exact listings and regional availability should be checked when you buy.
Batch-paint the army without losing consistency
- Finish one complete test model. Do not approve the scheme from an unfinished torso.
- Paint a small batch. Work on five to ten models so the colour remains wet enough to compare while you learn the process.
- Complete one material across the batch. Do all metal, then all leather, then stone, rather than finishing each model independently.
- Use the same shade strength. Mix enough recess shade for a session or record the ratio so the next group does not become visibly darker.
- Reserve accents for the end. This keeps the army’s colour balance under control and makes clan assignments easy to adjust.
- Base every model in the same session. The base is part of the scheme, not an afterthought.
Photograph each finished batch under the same light. Differences that are invisible on a desk can become obvious when the army is ranked together for a game.
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The armour looks flat
Check that the recess shade is actually visible and that broad panels received a controlled re-layer. Add a narrow edge highlight to helmets, shoulder rims and shield edges before changing the entire metal colour.
The army looks too dark
Increase contrast on raised metal and stone rather than adding extra accent colours. A lighter drybrush on bases and a brighter final metal edge usually restores readability while preserving the subterranean mood.
The accent colour takes over
Reduce the painted area first. Keep the hue, but move it to shield centres, a few cloth panels and selected runes. If it still dominates, desaturate it with a darker or more muted version.
Stone constructs look like a different army
Repeat the exact base texture and rim colour, then add the shared metal to fittings and armour plates. A small amount of the accent in runes or gems also links stone bodies to metal infantry.
Fyreslayers look disconnected
Do not repaint their defining skin and flame features merely for uniformity. Rework the bases, metal, leather and selected accent details first; those repeated anchors usually solve the mismatch.
Contrast paint pools on flat plates
Use less paint, wick away excess with a clean brush and reserve Contrast for textured areas. For broad armour, switch to an opaque base colour and controlled shade, then keep the same highlight colour used on the rest of the army.
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When to add more colours
Add a second accent only when the first one cannot communicate a genuine role or clan distinction. Introduce it in a limited location, repeat it on at least two units and test it beside the foundation metal. Never change the basing, leather or recess shade to accommodate a new clan colour; those are the visual constants that hold the host together.
Frequently asked questions
Is this an official Khazalite Holds colour scheme?
No. It is a lore-led recommendation based on the faction’s forge, karak, stone, gem and ancestor imagery. As of October 2026, Games Workshop has not published a complete Khazalite-specific recipe in the available material.
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1Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minute2Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problems3Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesCan I use an existing Fyreslayer collection?
Yes. The Khazalite reveal says the battletome incorporates Fyreslayers as Grimmdron and that existing Fyreslayer miniatures can be used. Shared bases, metal, leather and accent details make them read as one duardin host while their skin and flame motifs remain recognizable.
Which method is faster for a large army?
Contrast over a suitable undercoat is generally faster on textured leather and stone. Classic Base, Shade and highlight gives better control on broad armour and clean shields. A hybrid workflow usually offers the best balance.
Do every clan and unit need identical shields?
No. Keep the foundation and accent family constant, then vary shield placement, value or a small border to identify clans without fragmenting the army.
What should I paint first?
Paint one ordinary Clanshield as the test model. It contains the core materials and gives you a practical reference for every later unit, including constructs, artillery and leaders.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this an official Khazalite Holds colour scheme?
No. It is a lore-led recommendation; as of October 2026, no complete Khazalite-specific recipe has been published in the available material.
Can I use an existing Fyreslayer collection?
Yes. The reveal says Fyreslayers, called Grimmdron, can be used with the Khazalite battletome. Match bases, metal, leather and accent details while retaining their skin and flame motifs.
Which method is faster for a large army?
Contrast is generally faster on textured leather and stone; Classic Base, Shade and highlight gives more control on broad armour. A hybrid workflow balances both.
Do clans need identical shields?
No. Keep foundation colours and the accent family constant, while varying placement or value to identify clans.
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What should I paint first?
Use one Clanshield as a test model because it contains the materials found throughout the range.
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