Start at SFX 200’s daylight rating of ISO 200, then choose a filter for the look you want and account for its exposure factor. ILFORD describes SFX 200 as a black-and-white film with extended red sensitivity up to 740 nm—not true infrared film. A deep red filter is the key creative choice: it can turn blue skies nearly black and green vegetation nearly white, but it also reduces the light reaching the film.
How do I meter ILFORD SFX 200 with a red filter?
Use ISO 200 as your starting speed in daylight. The next step depends on whether your meter reads through the filter or without it. ILFORD’s November 2018 technical sheet gives guide factors for specified filter colors and Wratten equivalents; those figures are not universal values for every filter sold as “infrared.” Check the factor for your actual filter and bracket exposures.
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If you meter without the filter
Meter the scene at ISO 200 without the filter, then apply the factor for the filter you will use. A factor of 2.8 is approximately 1½ stops, a factor of 3 is approximately 1⅔ stops, and a factor of 16 is 4 stops. Use the filter maker’s instructions if your filter has its own stated factor; do not assume it matches a Wratten equivalent just because the color description is similar.
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If you meter through the filter
A through-the-lens (TTL) meter may account for the light blocked by a filter, but ILFORD warns that some common TTL systems can underexpose by up to 1½ stops with deep red or orange filters. Do not assume the reading is exact. ILFORD recommends bracketing exposures by ±2 stops around the filtered TTL reading. Its suggested check is to make a bracket at EI 200 with the filter in place, then choose the best negative after processing and adjust your approach if needed.
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How many stops should I add for an infrared filter?
There is no single correction for every filter marketed for infrared photography. For the listed Wratten-equivalent colors, ILFORD’s November 2018 technical information gives these guide values:
| Filter description | Wratten equivalent | Manufacturer’s factor | Exposure increase |
|---|---|---|---|
| Red | 25 | 2.8 | About 1½ stops |
| Deep red | 29 | 3 | About 1⅔ stops |
| Very deep red | 89B | 16 | 4 stops |
These are manufacturer guide values for the listed colors and equivalents, not a promise that every filter model with a similar label has the same transmission. Confirm the factor for your specific filter, then bracket. ILFORD also lists a very light yellow Wratten 3 filter at factor 2; in general, it says the effect varies with filter transmission and becomes more dramatic as the filter gets redder.
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Which filter gives the strongest infrared-like look?
Filter choice trades tonal effect against exposure cost. Yellow and orange filters provide less extreme filtering than deep red options; a deep red filter can make blue skies almost black and green vegetation almost white. The very deep red Wratten 89B has the largest factor among the examples above, so it calls for a four-stop increase when metering without the filter. ILFORD’s product description characterizes the deep-red result as an “infra-red look,” not as evidence that SFX 200 is true infrared film.
Choose by the result you want, not by the word “infrared” on a filter label. A more restrictive filter may produce a more dramatic rendering while making composition, focusing, and exposure more demanding. The factor for an aftermarket filter is not established by ILFORD’s sheet unless it corresponds to one of the listed guide equivalents.
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What exposure should I try in bright sunlight?
As one illustration—not a universal recipe—ILFORD gives about 1/30 second at f/5.6 in bright sunlight with a deep red filter. Actual exposure changes with the light, the filter’s transmission, and how your meter responds. Treat the example as a starting reference, not a substitute for metering and bracketing. With a very dark filter, shutter times can become long; use a tripod when needed.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How should I focus, load, and process SFX 200?
Focus before attaching a deep red filter
Deep red filters make focusing difficult, so focus first and then fit the filter. ILFORD notes that some lenses focus red light at a slightly different point from white light. With short to moderate focal lengths, stopping down to the smallest working aperture can accommodate the difference; some apochromatic lenses may need no correction.
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Load in subdued light and use normal black-and-white processing
SFX 200 can be loaded in subdued light; total darkness is not required. The manufacturer says it works with normal black-and-white developers. Its product listing includes ID-11 stock as an example: 10 minutes at 20°C. Follow the current instructions for your chosen developer and processing method.
Quick Recap
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