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Freedom251 › Blog › Bluetooth

How to Make a Soundbar Wireless Without Snaking HDMI Cables Across Your Living Room

By Freedom251 Team · · 6 min read

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Only partly. You can remove the long audio cable between your TV and soundbar, but the setup still has short connections at each end and needs power at both. The route with the most documented support is a purpose-built TV audio transmitter and receiver: the transmitter takes HDMI ARC from the TV, and the receiver outputs optical audio to the soundbar. Bluetooth can also work, but only when the TV can transmit and the soundbar can receive, and it brings delay and format limits you need to check before you buy.

What “wireless” still leaves wired

A wireless audio link replaces the middle of the run, not both ends. In most setups that use a bridge, you still have:

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  • A short cable from the TV’s HDMI ARC port to the transmitter, which usually sits near the TV.
  • A power connection for the transmitter.
  • A short optical or other cable from the receiver to the soundbar, plus power for the receiver.

Bluetooth is the only route that removes every cable between the TV and soundbar, and only if both devices support it in the right roles. Even then, the soundbar still needs its own power.

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Option 1: Bluetooth from the TV to the soundbar

Bluetooth audio works in one direction: the TV sends audio, and the soundbar receives it. That requires two checks on the actual models you own.

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Confirm both devices support the right roles

  • The TV must be able to transmit Bluetooth audio. Many TVs can receive Bluetooth headphones but cannot send audio to a speaker, so check the TV’s Bluetooth settings or its manual for an output option.
  • The soundbar must be able to receive Bluetooth audio from a source device.
  • Sony’s support guidance on connecting a soundbar to a television says the optimal signal exchange between a TV and a sound bar remains an HDMI cable, and warns that Bluetooth is more prone to latency issues. Treat Bluetooth as a compromise, not an equivalent.

Expect delay and check for it

Bluetooth delay between picture and sound can be noticeable, especially if the audio is also playing through another device. Teufel, a speaker maker, says a slight delay may be perceived as echo or reverberation, and notes that aptX Adaptive or Bluetooth LE Audio can reduce the perceived delay. Those codecs only help if both the TV and soundbar support them, so confirm that before assuming an improvement.

Watch for lost formats and controls

A Bluetooth link carries a compressed stream, so high-quality surround formats that a direct HDMI connection can pass may not be available. Check whether your soundbar still responds to the TV remote’s volume controls once Bluetooth is in use, because that behavior depends on the TV and soundbar models.

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Option 2: An ARC-to-optical wireless bridge

A purpose-built bridge is the most direct replacement for a long HDMI run. The transmitter uses the TV’s HDMI ARC output, and the receiver provides an optical audio output that connects to the soundbar’s optical input.

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Example: Marmitek Audio Anywhere 730

Marmitek documents the Audio Anywhere 730 as an ARC-to-optical wireless audio link, with HDMI ARC at the TV end and optical audio output at the speaker end. Its product description, which is undated, gives latency below 12.5 ms. That is the manufacturer’s own figure, not an independently measured result, and it does not establish how the link performs with every TV and soundbar combination.

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Check the soundbar’s optical input first

Before you buy, confirm that your soundbar has an optical input. If it does not, a bridge that ends in optical audio cannot connect directly, and you would need a different approach.

Understand that ARC is not eARC

An ARC-to-optical bridge is not automatically equivalent to a direct HDMI eARC connection. Optical audio has its own format limits, so the bridge may not carry every format your soundbar can decode over a direct connection. Check the formats you care about (for example, high-bitrate surround formats) against the bridge’s documentation, and do not assume they will pass through.

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Why a generic wireless HDMI kit usually does not qualify

Many wireless HDMI kits are sold as wireless extenders, but most are designed to send audio and video from a source to a display. A datasheet for one such kit, the GWHD11, describes wireless audio and video transport from an HDMI source to a TV or projector receiver. It does not establish any ARC or eARC return path from the TV back to a soundbar. Do not buy a generic wireless HDMI kit for this purpose unless the manufacturer explicitly documents ARC or eARC support and the control functions that go with it.

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Sync problems can come from the source, not only the wireless link

Lip sync problems can appear even on wired setups, depending on the source and the TV’s processing. Sony recommends checking the TV’s A/V sync function, which is usually adjusted in the TV’s sound or picture menu, and in some cases connecting the source directly to the soundbar over HDMI to rule out the TV as the cause. If you see audio ahead of or behind the picture after you add a wireless link, test the same content with the original cable first to see whether the problem existed before.

The wired fallback: a shorter or concealed HDMI cable

If wireless options do not match your models, a rated HDMI cable is still the most reliable route. Choose a cable rated for the eARC audio formats you plan to use, and measure the actual route, including bends and wall or cable-channel runs, before ordering. Concealed or in-wall cable kits can keep the connection out of sight without changing how the signal travels, which keeps the TV’s HDMI features intact.

Comparing the options

Path What it removes Main limit Check before buying
Bluetooth from TV to soundbar The TV-to-soundbar audio cable Delay and compressed audio; both devices must support the right roles Bluetooth transmit on the TV, receive on the soundbar, supported codecs, and remote volume behavior
ARC-to-optical wireless bridge (e.g., Marmitek Audio Anywhere 730) The long audio run, leaving short connections at each end Optical format limits compared with direct eARC; power needed at both ends ARC and optical ports, format support, placement, and the manufacturer’s compatibility list. Latency: manufacturer claim below 12.5 ms, undated product page
Generic wireless HDMI kit Usually transports audio and video from a source to a display Does not establish ARC or eARC return from the TV to a soundbar Explicit manufacturer documentation of ARC or eARC support; not assumed from the product category
Shorter or concealed rated HDMI cable Visible cable length, not the cable itself Still a physical connection Cable rating for the formats you use, and the actual route length

Checklist before you buy

  • Find the exact TV and soundbar model numbers, and check their manuals for ARC or eARC, Bluetooth transmit and receive, and optical input.
  • Confirm the audio formats you use are supported by the route you choose.
  • Check where power outlets sit at the TV and soundbar, and where each short connection will run.
  • Use the manufacturer’s compatibility list for any bridge or transmitter before purchase.
  • After installation, test lip sync with the TV’s A/V sync setting and a known clip, and confirm the volume control still works as you expect.

For most people, the choice comes down to whether the TV has ARC and the soundbar has optical input. If it does, a purpose-built bridge is the most direct way to remove the long run. If the TV and soundbar both support Bluetooth in the right roles and you accept some delay and format compromise, Bluetooth removes the cable entirely. If neither fits, a rated, concealed HDMI cable keeps the full connection.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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