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How to Choose Arcade Buttons, Joysticks, and Encoders for a DIY Bartop

By Freedom251 Team · · 12 min read

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Choose a bartop’s buttons, joysticks, and encoder as one system. Start with the games you will play and the number of players, then confirm panel space, mounting depth, connector style, encoder capacity, and host-device support. The “best” control is not universal: feel and layout are personal choices, while wiring and input compatibility are hard requirements.

A practical build can use a USB zero-delay encoder for ordinary switch inputs, a programmable interface when custom mappings or keyboard/game-controller modes matter, and a dedicated optical interface when the cabinet includes a trackball or spinner. The sections below show how to decide without buying parts that cannot be mounted or connected.

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Make a control plan before shopping

List the games and their control types

Write down the games your bartop must support before choosing hardware. Group them by the controls they actually need:

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  • Digital directional games need a joystick and action buttons.
  • Games with different directional conventions may work better with a joystick that can switch between four-way and eight-way restriction.
  • Trackball games need a trackball and an interface designed for optical movement.
  • Spinner or rotary-joystick games need optical rotary inputs rather than ordinary microswitch directions.

This inventory prevents a common mistake: buying a button-and-joystick kit and discovering later that the intended game library needs an entirely different input path.

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Set the player count and button count

Count the controls for every player, including start, select, credit, menu, or service buttons your software requires. As a planning example, Ultimarc’s Interface Buyers Guide illustrates a basic two-player panel with two joysticks, six action buttons per player, and start buttons. It is an example of a common layout, not a universal requirement.

Once the count is known, compare it with the encoder’s published inputs. A board that supports one joystick and 12 buttons is not automatically a two-player solution: two players require two directional controls plus every action and utility button you intend to expose.

Measure the panel and cabinet

Before ordering, mark the control centers on your actual panel or cabinet drawing. Check:

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  • Available width and depth around each player’s hand position.
  • Panel thickness and the mounting depth below it.
  • Clearance for the joystick body, restrictor, wiring, and encoder.
  • Button-hole diameter and spacing required by the specific button model.
  • Room for USB access, strain relief, and service access after the panel is installed.

There is no single “bartop” dimension that fits every joystick or button. Use the dimensions in the chosen hardware’s documentation and compare them with your cabinet plans.

Choose the buttons

Decide by role and feel, not by a universal ranking

Buttons differ in travel, actuation force, sound, return feel, and appearance. Those preferences depend on the games and the player. Ultimarc explicitly says its buyer guide will not prescribe a particular joystick or button because the choice is “very subjective.” Treat that as a design decision: choose the feel you want, then verify that the part fits the panel and wiring.

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Check physical fit

Confirm the button’s required hole size, panel thickness range, retaining method, and body depth. A button that fits the top surface can still collide with the cabinet frame or joystick underneath. Leave enough room to remove a button or unplug its terminal without dismantling the entire bartop.

Check terminals and harnesses

Buttons normally connect to the encoder with individual signal and common wires. Terminal width and connector style must match the button switch and the harness supplied with the encoder kit. Do not assume that a joystick harness also solves the button wiring: joystick and button connections can use different terminals, and the actual switch hardware determines what fits.

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Choose the joystick

Match the directional behavior to the games

A four-way restrictor favors games that expect one cardinal direction at a time; an eight-way restrictor permits diagonals for games that use them. If your library mixes both types, a switchable joystick can avoid repeatedly opening the panel to change a restrictor. If the library is consistent, a fixed configuration may be simpler and less expensive to maintain.

Choose the feel your players prefer

Lever tension, throw, centering, gate shape, actuator profile, and audible click all affect how a joystick feels. No cited source establishes one feel as objectively superior, so prioritize the games, player preference, and mounting constraints. If more than one person will use the bartop, choose a feel that is acceptable for the group or make the control layout replaceable.

Verify the joystick’s connector before buying

Connector style is a compatibility requirement, not a cosmetic detail. The Focus Attack guide by Joseph Howell describes two common zero-delay wiring patterns: a Japanese-style 5-pin harness for Sanwa or Seimitsu levers, and an American-style harness using .187-inch terminals for Suzo Happ or Industrias Lorenzo levers. The same guide notes that some Seimitsu or Crown levers may use .187-inch terminals. Read the exact listing for your lever and encoder, because a brand name alone does not guarantee one connector format.

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Match connectors and wiring

Connection pattern Typical hardware described in the compatibility guide What to verify
5-pin joystick harness Sanwa or Seimitsu Japanese-style lever That the lever has the matching 5-pin socket and that the encoder includes the correct lead.
.187-inch terminals Suzo Happ or Industrias Lorenzo American-style lever; some Seimitsu or Crown levers Terminal width, switch arrangement, and whether the harness has the right number and orientation of connectors.
Button terminals Depends on the button switches and the encoder harness Terminal size, common/ground arrangement, and whether every button lead reaches the encoder without strain.

These distinctions come from Focus Attack’s compatibility explanation: What is the difference between the Japanese & American style Zero Delay Controls set?. Use the guide as a wiring checklist, then confirm the actual connector on each part you purchase.

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Pick an encoder that matches the build

What a zero-delay encoder is useful for

A USB zero-delay encoder converts joystick and button switch closures into inputs that the host computer can read. It is a straightforward route for a digital-control bartop, provided its input count, connector set, and host mode match the panel.

Joy-IT’s SBC-ZDE product page lists these specifications for that particular board:

  • One joystick input.
  • Twelve button inputs.
  • A Sanwa/Seimitsu 5-pin joystick connection.
  • 5 V operation.
  • Support listed for Windows, MAME, and other emulations.

Those are the published specifications for the SBC-ZDE, not a guarantee for every board sold as “zero delay.” Listing titles that use the phrase “USB zero-delay arcade encoder with wiring harness” can describe boards with different capacities or plugs. Before ordering, check the number of joystick ports, button terminals, included leads, USB connector, operating voltage, and the host systems named by the seller or manufacturer.

When a programmable interface is a better fit

Choose a programmable interface when you need custom key codes, more deliberate mapping control, or a choice between keyboard and game-controller operation. Ultimarc documents those capabilities for its Mini-PAC/I-PAC family, including programmable codes and keyboard and game-controller modes. The documentation also describes a design intended to avoid matrix ghosting and variable scanning delay. These are manufacturer specifications, not an independent speed comparison; no comparable test establishes one interface as universally faster.

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Capacity and connector details vary by model, so treat the exact product documentation as the authority. A programmable board is useful only if its available inputs and physical connectors still fit your panel plan.

Compare interface paths

Interface path Best fit Published inputs or features Host and wiring considerations
Zero-delay encoder such as Joy-IT SBC-ZDE Simple USB digital controls One joystick, 12 buttons, 5 V, Sanwa/Seimitsu 5-pin port Joy-IT lists Windows, MAME, and other emulations; verify the exact harness and capacity for your panel.
Programmable Mini-PAC/I-PAC family Custom mappings or selectable input modes Programmable codes; keyboard and game-controller operation; manufacturer-described protection against matrix ghosting and variable scanning delay Model-specific input counts and connectors must be checked in the product documentation.
Optical interface such as Opti-PAC Trackballs, spinners, or rotary joysticks Ultimarc describes support for up to two trackballs and four spinners/rotary joysticks on one USB cable Use the optical wiring and software configuration required by the selected devices.
Switching joystick with a servo control board A library that genuinely mixes four-way and eight-way movement ServoStik uses a motor-driven restrictor; its control board drives two joystick servos This solves restrictor switching, not USB input translation by itself; pair it with a compatible input interface.

Plan for optical controls separately

Trackballs, spinners, and rotary joysticks

Optical controls do not behave like ordinary button switches. A trackball or spinner generates movement data that requires an optical-capable interface and corresponding software settings. Ultimarc’s Opti-PAC documentation specifies support for trackballs, spinners, and rotary joysticks, and describes one USB cable supporting up to two trackballs and four spinners or rotary joysticks.

Confirm the exact device wiring, connector arrangement, and emulator configuration before cutting the panel. A digital encoder that handles joysticks and buttons is not automatically an optical interface.

Four-way/eight-way switching

If switching is important, Ultimarc describes its ServoStik as using a motor-driven restrictor plate that switches between four-way and eight-way operation in less than a second. That wording is the manufacturer’s description: “Motor-driven restrictor plate switches between 4 and 8 way in less than a second.” The associated control board drives two joystick servos, so account for both the mechanical sticks and the control electronics in the cabinet plan. This is an optional specialty feature, not a requirement for a conventional bartop.

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Use a decision matrix for the final parts list

Your requirement Selection consequence
One player, digital games, ordinary buttons A zero-delay USB encoder may be sufficient if its joystick, button, voltage, connector, and host specifications match.
Two players or a large utility-button set Choose an encoder or combination of interfaces with enough published inputs; do not infer capacity from the phrase “zero delay.”
Custom keyboard mappings or selectable input modes Consider a programmable interface documented for programmable codes and keyboard/game-controller operation.
Trackball or spinner games Add an optical-capable interface and plan the software configuration separately from digital switch inputs.
Games that alternate between four-way and eight-way movement Consider a switchable restrictor such as the ServoStik approach, provided the cabinet has room for the mechanism and control board.
Mixed Japanese-style and American-style parts Buy connector-matched harnesses or adapters after checking each lever’s actual socket or terminal width.

Buy the parts in a compatibility-first order

  1. Write the input inventory. Record each player’s joystick, action buttons, start buttons, coin or credit input, and any menu or service controls.
  2. Mark the panel. Draw the button centers and joystick locations on the real panel material. Check hand clearance, mounting depth, and access to the underside.
  3. Select the joystick type. Decide fixed four-way, fixed eight-way, or switchable restriction based on the games, then choose the preferred lever feel.
  4. Record every connector. For each joystick and button, note 5-pin, .187-inch, or the actual terminal style shown by the manufacturer. Do not rely on a generic kit name.
  5. Choose the encoder family. Compare the required input count and host mode with the encoder’s published specifications. For the Joy-IT example, verify that one joystick and 12 buttons are enough for your design.
  6. Add specialty interfaces. If the panel includes a trackball, spinner, or rotary joystick, select an optical interface such as the Opti-PAC path and verify device wiring.
  7. Check power and cable routing. Confirm the interface’s operating voltage, USB connection, cable length, strain relief, and access for service.
  8. Keep documentation with the parts. Save the exact product pages and wiring diagrams for the encoder, joysticks, buttons, and any optical or servo board. Connector labels and host modes are model-specific.
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Wire and configure the bartop

  1. Mount the hardware before final tightening. Place joysticks and buttons in the panel, then check that bodies and terminals clear the cabinet frame.
  2. Connect the joystick harness. Use the harness intended for the lever’s connector. For a 5-pin lever, confirm that the encoder’s lead is actually the matching Sanwa/Seimitsu type; for a .187-inch lever, confirm terminal width and switch layout.
  3. Connect each button to a labeled input. Follow the encoder’s input markings and common connection scheme. Keep wires routed so that they cannot catch on the joystick actuator or pinch against the panel.
  4. Connect USB and power as specified. Use the encoder’s documented voltage and USB connection. Do not substitute a different supply or assume that visually similar boards have identical power requirements.
  5. Set the host input mode. If the interface offers keyboard and game-controller modes, select the mode your operating system and emulator configuration expect. A board that is visible over USB can still be mapped incorrectly if the software is listening for a different input type.
  6. Map controls in the emulator. Assign directions and buttons one at a time, then save the profile. Keep player-one and player-two mappings separate when the interface and software support them.
  7. Configure optical devices independently. For a trackball, spinner, or rotary joystick, select the appropriate optical device in the emulator and tune direction or sensitivity settings as required by that software.
  8. Test before closing the cabinet. Exercise every direction and button while watching the host’s input-test screen. Repair miswiring while the panel is still easy to remove.

Troubleshoot the problems that matter most

The host sees the USB board but no controls respond

  • Confirm that the board has power and that the USB cable supports data, not only charging.
  • Check whether the operating system or emulator expects keyboard input or game-controller input.
  • Open the host’s input-test utility and determine whether the fault is at the USB level or only in the emulator mapping.
  • Verify that each wire is on the encoder input identified for that control and that the common connection is continuous.

One direction or button is missing

  • Inspect that control’s terminal and wire for a loose crimp or an incompatible connector.
  • Compare the actual lever or button terminal with the harness specification; a 5-pin lead cannot replace a .187-inch connection without the correct adapter or harness.
  • Move the suspect wire temporarily to a known-good input only as a diagnostic step, then return it to the intended labeled input after identifying the fault.

Two players cannot be mapped independently

Recount the required inputs and compare them with the encoder’s documented capacity. If the board publishes only one joystick input, it cannot be treated as a two-joystick interface without an additional compatible input path. Choose a larger or multi-interface design before permanently wiring the panel.

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Four-way games register unwanted diagonals

Check the joystick’s restrictor setting and the game’s directional mapping. A switchable or correctly configured four-way restrictor can be appropriate for games that should not accept diagonals; do not change emulator settings to compensate for a physically unsuitable gate.

A trackball or spinner does not move

Check that the device is connected to an optical-capable interface rather than an ordinary digital encoder. Then verify the optical device selection, axis direction, and sensitivity settings in the emulator. The USB connection alone does not make a switch-based encoder understand optical movement.

Common buying mistakes to avoid

  • Buying by appearance. Similar-looking zero-delay boards can have different input counts, harnesses, and host behavior.
  • Ignoring connector terminology. “Japanese” and “American” kits describe common wiring patterns, but individual levers can use exceptions; verify the actual socket or terminal.
  • Choosing the encoder before counting inputs. Start with the panel’s complete control list, including utility buttons.
  • Assuming a joystick harness covers buttons. Button terminals and joystick connectors must each match their own hardware.
  • Using a digital encoder for optical controls. Trackballs, spinners, and rotary joysticks require an optical input path.
  • Adding four-way/eight-way switching without cabinet clearance. The servo mechanism and its control board need physical and electrical room.
  • Calling one product universally fastest or best. The cited documentation provides feature claims, not an independent comparative test; choose on requirements and verified compatibility.

A practical selection sequence

For a basic single-player digital bartop, select buttons and a joystick that fit the panel, match their terminals to a USB encoder harness, and confirm that the encoder has enough inputs and supports the intended host. For a larger two-player panel, count every input first and choose an interface architecture with documented capacity for both players. For a mixed library, add the specialty hardware only where the games require it: optical interfaces for trackballs or spinners, and a switchable restrictor for genuine four-way/eight-way needs.

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That sequence keeps subjective choices—button feel, lever feel, color, and layout—separate from non-negotiable checks such as connector format, input capacity, voltage, mounting depth, and host mode.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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