A smart lock fits only when its physical requirements match your door and frame. Before buying, measure the door thickness, backset, face bore, and edge bore; check the strike plate and jamb; then compare every measurement with the current installation guide for the exact lock model and market version.
Do not rely on the phrase “standard door.” Smart-lock requirements vary. A door can have the correct thickness yet still fail because the backset, bore, strike opening, hole spacing, or alignment is wrong.
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What determines smart-lock compatibility?
Compatibility is a combination of the door, the holes already drilled in it, and the frame hardware. A lock that fits the door slab can still fail to operate if the bolt does not line up with the strike or if the jamb pocket is too shallow.
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One free scan finds every outdated or missing driver and matches the right update for your exact hardware.Free scan · exact hardware match- Door thickness: the thickness of the slab at the lock location.
- Backset: the distance from the door edge to the center of the large cross-bore (face bore).
- Face bore: the large circular hole through the door face.
- Edge bore: the hole drilled through the door edge for the latch or deadbolt body.
- Hole spacing: required on hardware with two vertically separated holes, such as some interconnected locksets.
- Strike and jamb geometry: the plate, bolt opening, and depth of the pocket in the frame.
- Operation and handing: the door must close and lock smoothly, and the lock must support the door’s left- or right-hand configuration.
Manufacturers publish these dimensions for particular models. Treat those figures as product requirements, not as an industry-wide standard.
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Measure these dimensions before you shop
1. Door thickness
Open the door and measure the slab itself at the lock area, not the trim or weatherstripping. Place the tape measure across the edge or between the interior and exterior faces. Record the result in the unit used by the installation guide, usually inches or millimetres.
Published examples demonstrate why guessing is risky. Schlage’s Control BE467F existing-hole guide specifies a thickness of 1⅜ to 1¾ inches and notes that a thick-door kit is available through product support. Level lists 1¾ to 2 inches for Level Locks. Those ranges apply to those products; they do not establish a universal smart-lock range.
2. Backset
Measure from the door edge to the centre of the large circular face bore. This is not the distance to the edge of the trim and not the overall length of the lock. Schlage’s terminology article defines backset as the distance from the edge of the door to the centre line of the prepared cross-bore hole.
Common published options include 2⅜ or 2¾ inches, but the lock you select may require one option, both options, or a different dimension. Schlage’s BE467F instructions state that the lock will not fit properly if the existing backset is neither 2⅜ nor 2¾ inches.
3. Face bore diameter
Measure the large hole through the front and back faces of the door. Measure across the opening, avoiding the decorative plate if one is fitted. A 2⅛-inch face bore is specified for Schlage Control BE467F and is also listed in Level’s door requirements for Level Locks. Do not enlarge the hole until the selected manufacturer’s instructions explicitly permit it.
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4. Edge-bore diameter
Measure the smaller opening in the narrow door edge where the latch or deadbolt enters. Schlage’s BE467F guide specifies a 1-inch edge bore. A different lock may use another diameter or a different latch assembly, so compare the edge-bore requirement separately from the face-bore requirement.
5. Hole spacing for multi-hole hardware
If the existing lock has more than one bore, measure vertically from the centre of one hole to the centre of the other. Schlage’s Control FE410F instructions require either 4 or 5½ inches between its two holes. This is a model-specific requirement for that interconnected hardware and does not apply automatically to a single deadbolt.
6. Strike plate and jamb opening
Measure and photograph the strike plate on the door frame before removing anything. Check its length, width, screw locations, and the size and position of the bolt opening. Then inspect the pocket behind the plate: the bolt needs enough depth to extend fully without hitting wood, masonry, or a reinforcement plate.
Level’s requirements list short and tall strike-plate sizes and warn that a rectangular jamb opening may need modification for its round bolt and strike opening. The same guidance says about one inch of bolt-hole depth is helpful for avoiding calibration-related problems. Those details apply to Level’s products; another lock may use a different plate or depth.
How to take reliable measurements
- Identify the exact product first. Write down the full model name, generation, and market version. A support page for one model or country is not proof that another version has the same dimensions.
- Gather simple tools. Use a tape measure or ruler, a pencil, a flashlight, and your phone camera. A screwdriver can help you remove a decorative plate if the manufacturer’s guide asks you to inspect the underlying hole.
- Measure the slab. Record door thickness at the lock, then measure backset from the edge to the centre of the face bore.
- Measure both bores. Record the face-bore diameter and edge-bore diameter. If the holes are covered by plates, measure the actual openings after removing only the trim that the instructions allow you to remove.
- Check additional holes. For interconnected or multi-point hardware, measure centre-to-centre spacing between every relevant bore.
- Document the frame. Record the strike-plate dimensions, screw positions, bolt-opening shape, and approximate pocket depth. Photograph the open door and the closed door so you can compare alignment.
- Test the existing door. With the door closed, turn the existing deadbolt. It should extend and retract without lifting, pushing, or pulling the door. Repeat with the door open to distinguish a lock problem from a frame-alignment problem.
- Compare every value with the model guide. Use the exact installation or door-preparation document, not a retailer summary. Check thickness, backset, bore sizes, spacing, strike requirements, handing, and whether the lock replaces only a deadbolt or a larger lockset.
Published examples: why the model guide matters
The following figures come from manufacturer documentation for specific products and markets. They are useful comparison points, not a promise that every smart lock uses the same preparation.
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| Example | Published fit details | Scope |
|---|---|---|
| Schlage Control BE467F | Door thickness 1⅜–1¾ in; backset 2⅜ or 2¾ in; 2⅛-in face bore; 1-in edge bore | Existing-hole guide for this specific Schlage model |
| Level Locks | Door thickness 1¾–2 in; 2⅛-in deadbolt bore; 2⅜- or 2¾-in backset; specified strike-plate criteria | Level product family; check the current guide for the exact product |
| Yale Libi Digital Lock Keyed | Door thickness 35–45 mm; backset 60 or 70 mm; 54-mm bore; supports left- and right-handed doors | Yale New Zealand support information for this model and market |
Notice that the thickness ranges and bore dimensions differ. The Yale figures are in millimetres and come from a New Zealand support page, while the Schlage and Level examples are U.S.-oriented materials. Convert units carefully, but still compare against the manufacturer’s stated tolerance rather than relying on a rounded conversion.
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Check what the lock is replacing
Determine whether the candidate is designed for an existing deadbolt hole, an interconnected lockset, or a complete lockset replacement. A product advertised as an existing-hole installation may reuse the current bore pattern, while another may require new holes or a different latch body.
Look at the inside and outside portions of your current hardware. Note whether there is one deadbolt, a deadbolt above a lever, or two holes connected by a single trim assembly. If your lock has multiple bores, use the model’s hole-spacing requirement; do not assume a single-deadbolt guide covers it.
Also check door handing. The Yale Libi Digital Lock Keyed support information explicitly covers left- and right-handed doors. Other products may require a setup step, a reversible latch, or a different installation orientation. Confirm the requirement in that product’s own instructions.
Test alignment before installation
The door should close without force
Close the door slowly. The latch should enter the strike without the slab being lifted, pushed, or pulled. If you must pull the door toward the frame to turn the deadbolt, the lock may work manually but fail during motorized calibration.
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The bolt must have a clear path
With the door open, extend the bolt and look for rubbing or obstruction. With the door closed, verify that the bolt enters the strike opening centrally and reaches the pocket. A strike opening that is offset by only a small amount can cause binding once a motor is added.
Inspect the jamb pocket
Use a flashlight to see whether the pocket is deep enough and free of debris. Level’s published guidance says approximately one inch of bolt-hole depth is helpful for avoiding calibration-related problems. Do not treat that figure as a universal requirement; use the exact lock guide when it gives a different depth.
What to do when a measurement does not match
- Door too thick: check whether the manufacturer offers a thick-door kit or an approved alternate spindle. Schlage lists such a kit for the BE467F through product support. Do not substitute an unapproved extension.
- Backset mismatch: stop before drilling. Schlage’s BE467F instructions specifically say an existing backset outside 2⅜ or 2¾ inches will not fit that lock properly. Another model may offer different options.
- Bore too small: some instructions may allow a smaller hole to be enlarged, but that permission is model-specific. Follow the stated template and tolerances or ask a locksmith.
- Bore too large or misplaced: an oversized or offset hole may require a different lock, a reinforcement plate, or professional repair. Do not assume a larger trim ring will make the mechanism safe or align the bolt.
- Strike opening does not line up: correct the frame only as far as the manufacturer’s guide permits. A local locksmith or door-hardware installer can assess the jamb without weakening it.
- Door requires pressure to lock: fix the alignment first. Installing a motorized lock over a binding deadbolt can produce failed calibration, excessive battery drain, or a lock that cannot secure the door.
A manufacturer’s statement that one type of modification is permitted does not establish that every mismatch is repairable. Keep the measured values and photographs when contacting support.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Use a compatibility worksheet
Record these values before ordering so you can compare them line by line with the official guide:
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- Exact lock model, generation, and market version
- Door thickness and measurement unit
- Backset
- Face-bore diameter
- Edge-bore diameter
- Centre-to-centre hole spacing, if more than one bore exists
- Strike-plate length, width, opening shape, and screw pattern
- Approximate bolt-pocket depth
- Left- or right-hand door orientation
- Whether the product replaces an existing deadbolt, interconnected hardware, or the full lockset
Only proceed when each required item falls within the model’s stated range or the instructions give an approved preparation method. Save a copy of the guide because live support pages and accessories can change.
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Physical fit is separate from connectivity
Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, keypad, and app features do not change the door’s bore or backset. For example, Level lists a Level Connect Wi-Fi Bridge as an optional accessory that adds Wi-Fi connectivity for Level locks; it is not needed to make a lock physically fit. Decide physical compatibility first, then evaluate remote-access accessories.
Geography, units, and documentation dates
Specifications can vary by market. The Yale Libi information cited above is for New Zealand, while the Schlage and Level examples come from U.S. materials. A lock sold under a similar name in another country may use different cylinder hardware, metric dimensions, or installation templates.
Some live support pages do not show a publication date. Treat their current access information as changeable and recheck the product documentation immediately before purchase or drilling. Older documents can still describe a valid product, but they should not override a newer guide for the exact model.
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Get help from a locksmith or door-hardware installer when the door is warped, the frame is reinforced, the existing holes are oversized, the strike must be relocated, or the manufacturer’s template does not clearly cover your configuration. Professional help is particularly valuable for fire-rated, security, metal, or unusually thick doors, where an improvised enlargement can damage the door or compromise the lock.
Give the installer your measurement worksheet, photos of both sides of the door, and the candidate lock’s official guide. That information allows the fit to be evaluated before irreversible drilling.
Final pre-purchase check
- Have you identified the exact model and market version?
- Do the measured thickness, backset, face bore, and edge bore meet its requirements?
- If there are multiple holes, does the centre-to-centre spacing match?
- Will the supplied latch and interior or exterior assemblies replace your existing hardware type?
- Does the strike plate and jamb provide a centred, deep path for the bolt?
- Does the door already close and lock without lifting, pushing, or pulling?
- Does the documentation address your door handing and any required modifications?
If any answer is no or uncertain, do not drill based on a generic “standard door” claim. Resolve the discrepancy with the manufacturer or a qualified installer first.
Bottom line
Measure the door thickness, backset, face bore, edge bore, and any hole spacing; inspect the strike and jamb; and test the deadbolt with the door closed. Then match those measurements to the exact lock’s current installation guide. Smart-lock fit is a model-specific mechanical question, and correct alignment matters just as much as the dimensions.
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