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The most economical home arcade is a compact bartop cabinet built around a Raspberry Pi, a reused HDMI monitor and a basic two-player USB encoder kit. A current independent parts estimate puts that type of build at about $100–$130, although your total will vary with local prices, reused hardware, tools and finish choices. Start by measuring the monitor and control panel, then cut an MDF shell, install the computer and wire the controls through USB.
This guide covers the cabinet, electronics, software, legal game sources, wiring, safety and the trade-offs that determine whether your project stays inexpensive or turns into a full furniture build.
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Choose the right cabinet for your budget
Cabinet size controls nearly every other cost: sheet material, monitor size, speakers, hardware, shipping and the amount of time spent cutting and finishing.
| Build choice | Advantages | Costs and compromises |
|---|---|---|
| Bartop | Uses less MDF, fits on a desk or counter, weighs less and can use a small used monitor. | Requires a separate stand or table and has less room for large speakers or controls. |
| Reduced-size floor cabinet | Provides a standing-play experience while using less material than a full arcade cabinet. | Needs a stronger base, more space and a larger display than a bartop. |
| Full-size cabinet | Comfortable standing height, room for a larger control panel and easier access for service. | More MDF, heavier construction, higher shipping and finishing costs, and greater labor. |
For a first project, a bartop or reduced-size cabinet is the safest budget decision. You can place it on a table now and build a dedicated stand later without replacing the electronics.
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- Includes Raspberry Pi 4 4GB Model B with 1.5GHz 64-bit quad-core CPU (4GB RAM)
- Includes Pre-Loaded 32GB EVO+ Micro SD Card (Class 10), USB MicroSD Card Reader
- CanaKit Premium High-Gloss Raspberry Pi 4 Case with Integrated Fan Mount, CanaKit Low Noise Bearing System Fan
- CanaKit 3.5A USB-C Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply (US Plug) with Noise Filter, Set of Heat Sinks, Display Cable - 6 foot (Supports up to 4K60p)
- CanaKit USB-C PiSwitch (On/Off Power Switch for Raspberry Pi 4)
How much the parts cost
The following estimate reflects a Pi 4 bartop using a used 15-inch monitor. The $100–$130 total is an illustrative 2026 estimate from an independent bartop guide, not a guaranteed retail price.
| Part of the build | What to buy | Budget guidance |
|---|---|---|
| Computer | Raspberry Pi 4 Model B or Raspberry Pi 5 | Use the board you already own if it is suitable for the systems you intend to emulate. |
| Power | Model-correct USB-C supply | Pi 4 documentation specifies 5V/3A USB-C; Pi 5 documentation specifies a 27W USB-C supply. |
| Storage | microSD card and, for file transfer, a USB flash drive | Do not use an unreliable or counterfeit card; storage failures are difficult to diagnose. |
| Display | Used HDMI/LCD monitor and display cable | Reusing a working monitor is usually the largest single saving. |
| Controls | Two USB encoder kits, two joysticks and 14 arcade buttons | Generic kits lower the price; premium controls cost more but can feel better and last longer. |
| Audio | Small speakers or a powered amplifier and speakers | A modest USB-powered audio setup is adequate for a bartop. |
| Cabinet | MDF, screws, angle brackets, edging and finish | Buy sheet goods locally when possible and reuse tools. |
| Hardware | Standoffs, cable ties, strain relief, ventilation fittings and hinges or a removable service panel | Small hardware is easy to overlook; reserve part of the budget for it. |
Premium joysticks, illuminated buttons, printed artwork, T-molding, LED lighting, a new display and a full-size shell can all push the project well beyond this estimate. Conversely, a monitor and tools you already have can reduce the cash outlay substantially.
Plan the monitor and control panel before cutting
Measure the display
Measure the visible screen width and height, the bezel, the mounting points and the depth of the monitor electronics. The cabinet must be wide enough for the chosen monitor; almost every other dimension can be adjusted around it. Confirm that the screen has an input compatible with the Raspberry Pi, usually HDMI, and that its power switch can remain accessible or be left on after startup.
Use the MDF thickness recommended for the shell
The Raspberry Pi HackSpace cabinet plan uses 18 mm MDF for the main body and 12 mm MDF for the front and rear panels. A compact cabinet can be cut from two 8 × 4 sheets, although your final requirement depends on the side-profile size and how efficiently you nest the pieces.
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- Includes Raspberry Pi 4 4GB Model B with 1.5GHz 64-bit quad-core CPU (4GB RAM)
- CanaKit 3.5A USB-C Power Supply with Noise Filter (UL Listed) specially designed for the Raspberry Pi 4 (5-foot cable)
- CanaKit USB-C PiSwitch (On/Off Power Switch)
- Set of 3 Aluminum Heat Sinks for the Raspberry Pi 4
Draw one accurate side profile on cardboard or scrap board first. Mark the screen angle, control-panel angle, top, base, rear opening and service access. Trace that profile twice so both sides match exactly. A mismatched pair will make the front and rear panels sit crooked.
Mock up the controls
Lay the joystick and buttons on cardboard at the intended scale. Sit in front of the mock-up and check that your wrists are relaxed, both players can reach their buttons, and the screen remains in a comfortable sightline. Leave clearance around the button bodies and below the panel for encoder boards and cable plugs. Mark screw locations only after confirming that they will not collide with the monitor or cabinet braces.
Tools, materials and safe working conditions
You can assemble a simple shell with a saw, drill, measuring tools, clamps, sandpaper, screws and angle brackets. A router can create cleaner joints or a T-molding slot, but it is not required for a first bartop. Screwed and bracketed construction is strong, serviceable and easier to disassemble than a permanently glued cabinet.
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One free scan finds every outdated or missing driver and matches the right update for your exact hardware.Free scan · exact hardware match- Use a straightedge and a fine-tooth blade for accurate panel cuts.
- Label every panel immediately after cutting; mirrored side pieces are easy to reverse.
- Dry-fit the shell before applying finish or permanently mounting electronics.
- Plan ventilation openings so warm air can leave the rear or top without blowing dust directly onto the screen.
MDF machining creates fine wood dust and can release formaldehyde. The UK Health and Safety Executive identifies these hazards, and the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration lists wood dust and finishing chemicals as causes of skin and respiratory disease. Cut and sand with effective extraction and high-performance filtration, wear eye protection and suitable respiratory protection, and work in a ventilated area. Keep dust away from the Raspberry Pi and other electronics.
Rank #3
- KEEP YOUR PROCESSOR COOL: The busier a processor gets the more it heats up, leading to sub-optimal performance. To prevent this common issue, this kit includes an aluminum alloy case with a pre-installed fan. The aluminum alloy actively draws the heat from the pi board, while the fan further cools the board and case. These cooling mechanisms will help push the limits of your processor and increase its flexibility.
- SIZABLE RAM: This Raspberry Pi 4 comes equipped with 4GB of RAM, which is the same amount of RAM or more RAM than many mainstream laptops contain. With 4GB of RAM, your processor will be capable of running retro gaming setups and common computer applications, media players, and much more!
- SIMPLE TO TURN ON & OFF: This kit includes a USB-C Raspberry Pi 4 compatible power supply with an easy-to-use on/off switch that was designed specifically for the Raspberry Pi 4 model to streamline processing.
- IMPROVEMENTS FROM PREVIOUS MODELS: This latest model of the Raspberry Pi 4 offers groundbreaking increases in processor speed, multimedia performance, connectivity, memory, and more! The desktop performance of this model is comparable to entry-level x86 PC systems.
- VERSATILE USE: The Raspberry Pi may have a small processor, but it is a highly adaptable little computer that can replace your desktop PC. Its functions range from practical to nostalgic since it can power an ad-blocking server as easily as it can power an outmoded gaming setup. Other uses include but are not limited to printing from non-wireless printers, playing media, making time-lapse videos, and building multiplayer network game servers and motion-capture security systems.
Paint, primer and contact adhesives also need ventilation and the protection specified on their labels. Use intact, correctly rated cords and covered electrical fittings. Do not improvise mains wiring inside the cabinet; have a qualified person handle any fixed-voltage wiring.
Build the MDF cabinet shell
- Create a full-size template. Draw the side profile, including the screen opening, control-panel edge, base, top and rear service area. Check the monitor and joystick dimensions against the drawing before transferring it to 18 mm MDF.
- Cut two matching sides. Clamp the MDF and cut slowly. Stack or template-route the second side from the first only when you can do so safely and keep the pieces firmly supported.
- Cut the structural panels. Prepare the base, top, control-panel support and rear brace. Use 12 mm MDF for front and rear panels where the plan calls for it. Leave a removable rear or bottom panel for future maintenance.
- Dry-assemble the frame. Hold the sides and braces together with clamps. Set the monitor in place and verify that its bezel is centered, the controls clear the screen and the cabinet sits flat.
- Install screws and angle brackets. Predrill MDF to reduce splitting and use brackets where a panel may need to come out later. Keep screw heads flush or recessed so they cannot catch wiring or hands.
- Add service and ventilation openings. Provide access to the Pi, microSD card, encoder USB leads and monitor controls. Add ventilation at the rear or top, but protect openings from accidental contact with wiring.
- Sand and seal. Round frequently touched edges, fill exposed end grain if desired, then prime and paint. A matte finish reduces screen reflections. Edging or plastic trim protects corners that will receive repeated contact.
- Mount the monitor last. Use a secure bracket or cleat that supports the monitor without stressing its bezel. Leave enough space to remove the display cable and reach the power switch.
Install the Raspberry Pi and operating system
Match power to the exact Pi model
Use the supply specified for your board and allow capacity for USB peripherals. Raspberry Pi documentation recommends a 5V/3A USB-C supply for Raspberry Pi 4 Model B. Raspberry Pi 5 documentation specifies a 27W USB-C supply. An undersized adapter can cause resets, peripheral dropouts or storage corruption.
Prepare the required hardware
RetroPie setup requires the Raspberry Pi, suitable power supply, microSD card, display cable, monitor, USB flash drive and a controller for initial configuration. Install the appropriate image to the microSD card, insert it into the Pi and connect the display, keyboard or controller, network connection if needed, and power.
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- Start the Pi and complete the first-run setup in EmulationStation.
- When prompted, assign the directional controls, action buttons, start, select and hotkey functions.
- Connect the arcade encoder through USB and repeat the controller mapping if the encoder appears as a new device.
- Set the display resolution and audio output, then restart to confirm that settings persist.
- Use a USB flash drive or another supported transfer method to copy only games you are legally entitled to use or homebrew software.
RetroPie tutorials discuss homebrew and official game sources, but installing an emulator does not grant rights to copyrighted ROMs. Keep proof of ownership where applicable and check the law in your country before copying or downloading a game.
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- A RASPBERRY PI KIT FROM AN APPROVED RESELLER: Basic Starter Kit for Pi 4 Includes Raspberry Pi 4 Model B Board (4GB) with basic accessories to get started.
- INCLUDES BASIC VITAL ACCESSORIES TO GET STARTED: Eight parts Includes: 1. Raspberry Pi 4 Model B (4GB RAM) 2. ABS 2 Part Snap Assembly Case 3. Raspberry Pi 4 compatible 3A Power Supply with on/off switch 4. Cooling Fan (Preinstalled In case) 5. Standard.HDMI (Female) to Micro HDMI Male Adapter 6. Heatsinks (set of 4) 7.Neoprene Storage bag 8. Vilros Quickstart Guide for Raspberry Pi 4
- RASPBERRY PI 4 MODEL B SPECS: Dim: 85.6mm × 56.5mm–Processor: Broadcom BCM2711, quad-core Cortex-A72 (ARM v8) 64-bit SoC @ 1.5GHz--Memory: 4GB LPDDR4--Connectivity: 2.4 GHz and wireless LAN, Bluetooth, Gigabit Ethernet 2×USB 3.0 ports 2×USB 2.0 ports---GPIO: 40-pin GPIO header---Video & Sound: 2 × micro HDMI ports---Multimedia: H.265 H.264 OpenGL ES, 3.0 graphics SD card support: Micro SD card slot for OS & data---Input power: 5V DC via USB-C connector, 5V DC via GPIO header, POE(requires HAT)
- PASSIVE & ACTIVE COOLING: The kit includes a heatsink with thermal stickers for easy application and if that this not enough you can also connect the pre-installed fan to keep the board cool in any use
- CONVENIENT ACCESSORIES: The power supply features an inline on/off switch neoprene bag that holds and protects all the parts when not in use and the quick start guide is updated and written for Raspberry Pi 4
Wire arcade buttons and joysticks through USB
A USB encoder is the simplest wiring path because it appears to the Raspberry Pi as a game controller. Each encoder kit normally provides terminals for directional inputs, individual button inputs, a common ground and a USB connection. Labels and terminal layouts vary, so follow the diagram supplied with your particular board rather than assuming every connector is identical.
- Mount the controls. Fit each joystick and button into the control panel, orienting the joystick consistently for both players. Tighten the retaining hardware without crushing the MDF.
- Connect the ground. Run the encoder’s ground daisy-chain through the ground tabs on the buttons and joysticks. Ensure every control shares the encoder ground.
- Connect button signals. Attach one signal lead from each button to the corresponding input terminal: player one action buttons, player two action buttons, start, select and any hotkey functions you plan to use.
- Connect joystick directions. Wire up, down, left and right to the correct terminals for each joystick. If a direction is reversed in software, check the physical orientation and terminal labels before remapping.
- Secure the cable run. Use cable ties or adhesive mounts to keep wires away from the monitor, fan and sharp MDF edges. Leave enough slack to remove the control panel for service.
- Connect USB and test. Plug the encoder into the Pi, open the controller configuration in EmulationStation and test every direction and button. Test both players, start/select and the exit or hotkey combination before closing the cabinet.
If a button does nothing, check its signal lead and the shared ground first. If several buttons fail together, inspect the encoder’s USB connection and ground. If one direction is permanently active, look for a pinched wire or a misplaced connector. Swap a suspect button onto a known-good input to determine whether the fault follows the button or the encoder channel.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Add audio, display controls and cable management
The Official Raspberry Pi Handbook describes both 3.5 mm audio and USB-powered audio options. Small powered speakers can sit behind the marquee or in the rear panel; a compact amplifier can drive passive speakers when its power and volume controls remain accessible. Keep speaker magnets and amplifier wiring clear of the display electronics, and provide a service loop so the rear panel can be removed.
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Set the monitor to its native resolution when possible and disable automatic sleep if the display will be controlled by the Pi. Secure the HDMI cable so its connector is not carrying the cable’s weight. Label the power, HDMI, USB and speaker leads before closing the cabinet; clear labels shorten future troubleshooting.
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- Vilros Complete Starter Kit for Pi 4 Includes Raspberry Pi 4 Model B Board and all the accessories you need to get started.
- 9-PART KIT WILL HAVE YOU READY TO GET UP AND RUNNING: Kit Includes 1. Raspberry Pi 4 Model B Board 2. Case With Easy to connect Built-in fan 3. 64GB Micro SD card Preloaded with RP OS 4. Vilros Pi 4 Compatible Power Supply with Inline on/off switch (power supply color may vary white/black) 5. Micro HDMI to Standard HDMI cable (5ft) 6. Micro SD to USB adapter to reflash card if desired 7. Neoprene Storage Bag to store all parts when not in use 8. Set of 4 Heatsinks 9. Vilros QuickStart Guide instruction booklet for Pi 4
- PASSIVE & ACTIVE COOLING: The included case is well-vented and the kit also includes a set of heatsinks with thermal stickers for easy application and a pre-installed fan to keep the board cool in any use.
- CONVENIENT ACCESSORIES: The power supply features an inline on/off switch neoprene bag that holds and protects all the parts when not in use and the QuickStart guide is updated and written for Raspberry Pi 4.
- IMPORTANT: Kit does NOT include Keyboard, Mouse or Monitor
Budget decisions that have the biggest effect
| Decision | Lowest-cost approach | What you give up |
|---|---|---|
| Display | Reuse a working HDMI/LCD monitor. | Possible bezel mismatch, worn backlight or awkward mounting points. |
| Controls | Generic joystick and button encoder kits. | Less consistent switch feel and potentially shorter service life. |
| Cabinet | Bartop from locally purchased MDF with screws and brackets. | Less standing comfort and less room for large speakers or decorative trim. |
| Computer | Raspberry Pi for classic systems. | A Pi may not handle demanding modern emulation that a more powerful PC can run. |
| Material | MDF. | Heavier than plywood and vulnerable to swelling if moisture reaches unfinished edges. |
| Finish | Painted matte surface with simple edging. | No printed artwork, lighting package or premium trim. |
A PC can support more demanding emulation, but it adds cost, heat, power consumption and software complexity. A Raspberry Pi is compact and efficient for classic systems, making it the better fit for a first budget cabinet.
Common problems and practical fixes
The Pi repeatedly reboots
Verify that the supply matches the board: Pi 4 needs the documented 5V/3A USB-C supply, while Pi 5 needs the documented 27W USB-C supply. Disconnect unnecessary USB devices, inspect the cable and check for a loose connector. A marginal supply is especially likely to fail when the display, encoder, storage and audio are all connected.
The screen is blank
Confirm that the monitor is on the correct input, reseat the HDMI cable and test the monitor with another source. Check that the Pi boots with a known-good display before changing cabinet wiring. Leave the monitor’s physical controls accessible until the software configuration is stable.
Controls work in the menu but not in a game
Reopen the emulator’s input configuration and map the encoder’s buttons to the expected player-one or player-two actions. Check that start, select and the hotkey combination have not been assigned to the same physical button as an action.
Audio is distorted or silent
Confirm the selected audio output, check the amplifier’s power connection and lower the software volume before increasing amplifier gain. Test the speakers outside the cabinet to separate a wiring fault from a damaged speaker.
The cabinet vibrates or panels flex
Add a rear brace or angle brackets, inspect loose screws and verify that the base sits flat. Do not rely on paint or trim to provide structural strength. If MDF edges have swollen, replace the damaged piece rather than trapping moisture inside the cabinet.
Before closing the cabinet: final checklist
- The monitor fits securely and its cable can be removed.
- The Pi has model-correct power and unobstructed ventilation.
- Every joystick direction and button has been tested for both players.
- USB, HDMI, audio and power cables are tied away from sharp edges and moving parts.
- The rear or bottom service panel can be removed without dismantling the whole cabinet.
- Dust has been removed from the electronics and all paint or adhesive has cured.
- Only legally obtained games or homebrew software are installed.
- No exposed mains connection or improvised electrical splice is inside the cabinet.
Bottom line
Build the smallest cabinet that fits your monitor, reuse the display and tools, and spend first on a reliable Pi power supply, storage, controls and safe construction. An 18 mm MDF shell with 12 mm front and rear panels, a USB encoder, basic speakers and a carefully configured Raspberry Pi delivers the essential arcade experience without the expense and complexity of a full-size cabinet.
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