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In Dressmaker, Burlap is a free Brown fabric that adds Uncomfortable +50 and Patterned +10, while lowering 16 of the game’s 22 tracked style tags. The “challenge” is therefore a requirements puzzle: a dress made entirely from Burlap can pass some commissions, but other briefs require you to offset its penalties with pattern pieces, additional fabrics, colors, decorations, or accessories.
What Burlap does
Burlap is available from the beginning and costs 0 gold per metre. Its strong positive effects are Brown, Uncomfortable +50 and Patterned +10. The same game-data record lists penalties to 16 of 22 tracked tags, making Burlap a poor universal choice for glamour, romance, elegance, floral and other style targets it reduces. These figures are extracted from Dressmaker build 25482629 and recorded for public build 410 by DressmakerCompanion; a later patch can change them.
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| Property | Burlap value | Practical consequence |
|---|---|---|
| Material cost | 0 gold per metre | You can build a garment without spending fabric money. |
| Color tag | Brown | Useful when a brief asks for Brown or permits it. |
| Style bonuses | Uncomfortable +50; Patterned +10 | Can satisfy briefs built around discomfort or pattern. |
| Style penalties | Reduces 16 of 22 tracked tags | May undermine elegance, glamour, romance, floral and similar requirements. |
The material does not decide success by itself. The commission’s requirement lines do. A Burlap dress is neither automatically invalid nor automatically optimal.
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You still use the regular Dressmaker workflow. Burlap changes the planning calculation, not the controls or order of operations.
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- Read the entire brief. Note every “at least” and “at most” line, plus color, fabric-share, accessory-count, trim and quality requirements.
- Draft the garment. Select the bodice, skirt, sleeves and collar whose pattern-piece tags provide as many required style points as possible.
- Choose materials. Select Burlap where Brown, Uncomfortable, Patterned or a zero-cost budget helps. Do not assume every piece must use it.
- Add complementary materials and decoration. Use another fabric for a required percentage, color share or tag that Burlap lowers. Add flowers, jewels, sequins, trim or other accessories when the brief counts objects rather than style points.
- Cut and sew carefully. Cut with the grain and sew accurately. Material-tag success does not compensate for failing a separate cutting or sewing-quality check.
- Inspect the completed requirement bars. Confirm every line before delivery; an attractive-looking garment can still fail an unmet count, percentage or quality threshold.
When a 100% Burlap dress works
Tomb Raider
A validated Tomb Raider solution uses 100% Burlap, has an estimated material cost of 0, reaches Workwear 50 and Simple 45, and meets the commission’s listed quality threshold. Burlap’s downside in this build is a 10-point reduction to Elaborate, but that reduction does not prevent the documented solution from passing. This is the clearest example of choosing pattern pieces that carry the useful tags while accepting Burlap’s weaknesses.
Not Haughty
A validated Not Haughty solution also uses 100% Burlap. Its pattern pieces combined with Burlap reach Uncomfortable 65 against a requirement of at least 25, with a 0 material-cost estimate. Here the fabric’s largest bonus directly targets the brief, so adding expensive material would provide no advantage unless another requirement demanded it.
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When to mix Burlap with other materials
Many commissions cannot be solved by one fabric. Companion-database examples use Burlap as only part of the garment so that silk, color percentages, sequins, flowers or other style requirements can be met. Those recipes are build-specific examples, not universal formulas: changing the brief, pattern pieces or game version can change the percentages and tags.
- Use Burlap for pieces where its Brown, Uncomfortable or Patterned values count toward the brief.
- Reserve other fabrics for the minimum share or color that the commission explicitly requires.
- Use accessories to satisfy numerical counts such as flowers, jewels or trim instead of trying to force those counts through fabric selection.
- Watch “at most” limits: Burlap’s positive tags can overshoot a cap just as another fabric can.
Using Burlap when you are out of gold
Burlap is the emergency option because its material cost is zero. If your balance is too low to buy normal fabric, make a simple off-the-rack dress and sell it. An off-the-rack design has no customer requirement list, so you can produce a basic garment without solving a commission brief. Community guidance describes this as a recovery method; the game’s sale-value overview states that value depends on material and labor, multiplied by quality and prestige multipliers. Careful cutting and sewing therefore matter even on a cash-recovery garment.
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Common mistakes and fixes
Assuming “100% Burlap” is always the goal
Full Burlap is a solution only when the current requirement bars allow it. If a brief asks for a silk share, a color percentage or a decoration count, switch to a mixed build and satisfy that exact line.
Ignoring Burlap’s penalties
Uncomfortable +50 and Patterned +10 do not erase the 16 tag reductions. Check the final bars for every required style, especially glamour, romance, elegance and floral-oriented lines.
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Meeting tags but failing quality
Style totals and workmanship are separate checks. Cut with the grain, sew precisely and verify the quality threshold before delivery.
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Following an old recipe after a patch
The recorded Burlap page identifies extracted build 25482629 and public build 410. Because requirements and examples can change, the live brief in your current game takes precedence over an older guide.
A compact decision rule
Start with the brief, not the fabric. Choose pattern pieces that supply the required style points; add Burlap where its zero cost, Brown, Uncomfortable or Patterned values help; then add only the complementary fabrics and accessories needed for percentages, colors, counts or tags it lowers. Finish by checking workmanship and every completed requirement bar before you deliver.
Quick Recap
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