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You can build a homemade UHF/VHF TV antenna from four metal coat hangers, a board, two short wires, a balun and a foil-covered reflector. WCNY’s published plan gives a practical set of dimensions, but it is one design—not a guarantee of particular channels or reception. Check which local stations and signal bands you need before building, then test the antenna’s placement and rescan your TV.
Check local signals before you build
An antenna needs to suit the broadcast signals available where you live. Look up current local stations and their RF bands with a location-specific reception tool; do not infer present-day availability from old channel-number ranges. Reception at your home also depends on terrain, trees, nearby buildings and the materials in your walls. Even FCC-predicted coverage contours do not guarantee service at an individual receiver location. FCC consumer guidance and 47 CFR § 73.618 explain these different contexts.
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For reference, § 73.618 lists minimum field-strength values of 35 dBu for channels 2–6, 43 dBu for channels 7–13 and 48 dBu for channels 14–36 for a broadcast station’s principal-community coverage planning. Those are not DIY antenna performance targets or promises of reception in your home.
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WCNY’s coat-hanger design uses the following materials and tools. The dimensions below describe that specific plan, not a universal antenna formula. WCNY’s construction plan includes its layout illustration.
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- Four metal coat hangers
- Ten wood screws and ten washers
- One UHF/VHF matching transformer, commonly called a balun; for this plan, use one that connects the antenna feed to the TV’s 75-ohm input
- Two 22-inch lengths of 18-gauge wire
- A wood board
- Cardboard or similarly sturdy backing, plus aluminum foil for the reflector
- A drill and bits, and wire cutters
Build the antenna
- Mark the board. Start the first pair of mounting points 3 inches below the top of the board, with the two points about 1.5 inches apart. Mark three more pairs at 7-inch intervals, for four pairs total.
- Fit the screws and balun. Fasten the ten screws at the marked points and place the balun at the center of the board as shown in WCNY’s plan.
- Prepare and attach the hangers. Cut each of the four coat hangers 7 inches in from each end. Attach them to the board so the opposing element ends are about 3 inches apart.
- Route the feed wires. Run the two 22-inch wires across the antenna elements as shown in the plan. Where the wires cross, separate them with insulating material so they cannot electrically touch.
- Add the reflector. Cover the cardboard backing with aluminum foil. Mount it behind the antenna board with a spacer so the reflector does not touch the board assembly.
The reflector and dimensions are features of WCNY’s published design. The source does not establish that the reflector guarantees stronger reception or that these measurements are optimal for every location.
Connect it to the TV and scan for channels
- Connect the antenna feed through the balun to the television’s antenna input.
- Set the TV’s input or tuner mode to antenna, air or over-the-air reception; the exact label varies by television.
- Run the TV’s channel scan.
- If expected stations are missing, move or aim the antenna and scan again. The FCC notes that digital reception can sometimes improve after moving an antenna by only a few inches. FCC antenna guidance also recommends trying different positions and rescanning.
Choose a location and installation approach
Indoor placement is simpler, but the FCC says outdoor antennas generally receive better. Height, obstructions, placement and aiming all affect results. If you can, test several locations before permanently routing cable or fixing a mount in place. A directional antenna may need careful aiming; a broader-coverage design can reduce that burden, but the best choice depends on local signals and conditions.
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Account for the entire signal path, not just the antenna: long coax runs and splitters can reduce signal reaching the TV. As typical manufacturer-published figures, Channel Master reports about 3.5–4 dB loss at each output of a two-way passive splitter and about 7–8 dB at each output of a four-way passive splitter. These are not universal measurements for every splitter or installation. Channel Master’s installation guidance also discusses mounting, grounding and bonding.
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Take care with an outdoor antenna
Keep the antenna and mounting work clear of power lines. Outdoor installations also face lightning and other site-specific hazards. The National Weather Service advises proper grounding of outdoor antennas to reduce lightning damage risk; Channel Master recommends grounding and bonding in line with applicable electrical and local codes and suggests consulting a qualified professional for site-specific guidance. National Weather Service lightning safety guidance
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Will a coat-hanger antenna pick up local channels?
It may receive local stations if their signals reach your location and the antenna’s placement, orientation and connection work for those signals. The construction plan alone cannot establish which channels a particular home will receive. Check current local station information, scan the TV, then experiment with placement and aiming. If reception remains unreliable, compare other antenna designs or a ready-made VHF/UHF antenna against your actual signal conditions rather than assuming a larger or more complicated antenna will solve the problem.
Quick Recap
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