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Short answer: this is a hardware transplant, not a normal firmware upgrade. You remove the Broadlink 3323 module from a compatible RM Mini 3 PCB, install an ESP-12E or ESP-12F ESP8266, reconnect the board’s power, serial and IR circuits, then flash local firmware such as Tasmota.

The best-documented example uses an RM Mini 3 PCB revision 1.5 and an ESP-12E. Its GPIO assignments are useful starting points, but they are not universal: verify the IR receiver and transmitter traces on your own board before soldering.

What the conversion changes

The RM Mini 3 is the complete IR hub. The Broadlink 3323 is its original wireless/control module; it is not simply an ESP8266 waiting for a different firmware image. The documented modification removes that module and reuses the RM Mini PCB’s enclosure, power section, IR receiver, IR LEDs, button and indicator.

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  • Removed: Broadlink 3323 module.
  • Added: ESP8266 ESP-12E (ESP-12F can be considered after checking fit and wiring).
  • Retained: RM Mini PCB, IR hardware and enclosure.
  • Firmware: Tasmota’s IR build, or a separately configured ESPHome/custom firmware installation.

See the original RM Mini 3 transplant report for the revision-specific build that this guide discusses.

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Is your RM Mini a good donor?

Open the unit only when it is unplugged. Photograph both sides of the PCB, record its revision marking and identify the module actually fitted. The published wiring applies to an RM Mini 3 PCB V1.5; other revisions can move pads, change the regulator or use a different circuit.

Before committing to soldering, check:

  • There is room for the ESP module and its antenna.
  • The board has a clean, regulated 3.3-V rail.
  • The regulator and wiring can handle ESP8266 peaks. ESP8266 guidance recommends at least 250 mA, with practical margin above that.
  • You can trace the original module’s VCC, GND, TX, RX, IR-input and IR-output connections.
  • The IR receiver, LED and transistor driver are still functional.

A continuity tester is more reliable than an Internet pinout. The Tasmota template database lists another RM Mini mapping—GPIO5 for receive and GPIO14 for send—showing why one template cannot be assumed for every board (template reference).

Tools and parts

Required Useful additions
RM Mini 3 donor; ESP-12E or ESP-12F; fine wire; fine-tip iron; flux; solder; multimeter; 3.3-V USB-to-UART adapter Magnification; oscilloscope or logic analyzer; programmer fixture; spare resistors and capacitors; Kapton or insulating tape

Use a genuine 3.3-V UART. TX and RX must be 3.3-V logic, grounds must be common, and an adapter’s 3.3-V pin may not supply enough current. ESPHome’s physical connection guide specifically warns that some adapters expose 5 V; applying it to an ESP8266 can destroy the module.

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Map the board before removing the 3323

  1. Disconnect the power adapter and open the enclosure without losing the button or light pipe.
  2. Photograph the original module and every pad.
  3. Mark VCC, GND, TX and RX, then trace the receiver signal and the transistor/LED driver input.
  4. Measure the regulated rail with the board powered from its normal isolated low-voltage adapter.
  5. Check for shorts between 3.3 V and ground before attaching the ESP.
  6. Plan an accessible GPIO0 connection for programming.

Do not work on an exposed board connected to mains or an unisolated supply. The Broadlink adapter may be low voltage, but the safe practice is still to unplug before soldering and use an isolated source for tests.

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ESP8266 minimum circuit

An ESP-12 module needs a stable 3.3-V supply, ground, and the normal boot straps. Provide pull-ups for GPIO0, GPIO2 and EN/CH_PD, a pull-down for GPIO15, and a reset pull-up as required by your module. Keep a decoupling capacitor close to the ESP. The RM Mini’s existing resistors may not provide every connection the ESP-12 requires, so verify them rather than assuming they are present.

Documented RM Mini V1.5 wiring

The Hackster build reports this arrangement:

ESP8266 connection RM Mini connection
VCC Verified board 3.3-V rail
GND Board ground
TX/RX Corresponding original module serial pads
GPIO4 Pad traced as IR signal input
GPIO5 Pad traced as IR signal output
GPIO0 Accessible programming pad, pulled to ground during boot

This is a project-specific map, not a universal RM Mini pinout. Do not connect GPIO4/GPIO5—or GPIO14 from another template—without confirming which physical trace reaches the IR receiver and which drives the IR LED circuit. Also distinguish raw GPIO numbers from development-board labels such as D1 and D2.

Flash the replacement module

With power disconnected, wire the UART as follows:

  • Adapter 3V3 → ESP VCC
  • Adapter GND → ESP GND
  • Adapter TX → ESP RX
  • Adapter RX → ESP TX
  • GPIO0 → GND while powering or resetting for flash mode

After installing the ESP and checking for shorts, test serial access before writing firmware:

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esptool.py --port COM5 read_mac
esptool.py --port COM5 flash_id

Replace COM5 with your port, such as /dev/ttyUSB0. Tasmota’s Getting Started guide covers current esptool usage and troubleshooting.

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Backup and erase

If the module already contains ESP firmware, an optional backup is:

esptool.py --port COM5 read_flash 0x00000 0x100000 fwbackup.bin

The 0x100000 size is only Tasmota’s example; determine the actual flash size first. It may not be useful for the original Broadlink 3323, which may not be an ESP8266 and may not respond to esptool at all. Do not promise that the original Broadlink firmware can be restored.

For a replacement module, erase only after you have confirmed communication:

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esptool.py --port COM5 erase_flash

Flash the current official Tasmota IR binary from Tasmota’s release sources. The tasmota-ir.bin build includes almost all protocols from the IRremoteESP8266 library. Remove the GPIO0-to-ground bridge and power-cycle for normal boot.

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Configure Tasmota IR

Connect to the device’s temporary Wi-Fi setup, configure your network and open the Tasmota web console. The historical project used:

{"NAME":"CCXX-IR","GPIO":[1,1,1,1,1056,1088,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}

Treat that JSON as a compatibility reference for the documented build, not a guaranteed current template. In the current web UI, assign the GPIO function for IR receive to the pin connected to your traced receiver signal and IR send to the pin connected to the LED-driver input. Save, reboot and inspect the resulting template.

The separate RM Mini template entry shows an older mapping with GPIO5 as IRrecv and GPIO14 as IRsend. Different PCB revisions, signal polarity, module wiring and template conventions explain such differences.

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Test receive and transmit separately

Receive

  1. Boot normally and open the Tasmota console.
  2. Point a known-good remote at the receiver.
  3. Press a simple button and confirm a decoded protocol or raw message appears.
  4. Save a known-good sample before changing wiring.

Successful decoding proves the receiver path, not the transmitter.

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Transmit

  1. Place the RM Mini in line of sight of the target device.
  2. Start with power or volume using a known command.
  3. Try several distances and angles.
  4. If nothing happens, trace the transistor input through the IR LED driver and check polarity.

The documented builder received IR correctly but initially could not transmit. Back-tracing the LED path revealed the output connection error. A wrong GPIO, active-low/active-high assumption, damaged transistor or LED, or an incorrect Tasmota function can produce exactly this symptom. Air-conditioner remotes also send long, stateful messages, so a decoded signal does not guarantee reliable control of every AC.

MQTT and Home Assistant

Set a unique Tasmota device name and topic, then use the command topic shown by the device’s current configuration. The original project reported a working example of:

tasmota/gateway_ir/cmnd/IRHVAC

Do not copy that topic blindly: device name, topic settings and Tasmota version determine the actual path. Verify it in the console and use Home Assistant’s MQTT integration or Tasmota discovery after receive and transmit work locally. Tasmota can operate locally over MQTT, HTTP and its web interface, but your broker or Home Assistant installation can still introduce network dependencies.

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ESPHome alternative

ESPHome is a good Home Assistant-first option because configuration is declarative and OTA updates are available after the first serial installation. It is not a drop-in continuation of the Tasmota template: define the receiver and transmitter pins again, account for the RM Mini’s transistor polarity and test both directions. Follow ESPHome’s 3.3-V and serial guidance.

Custom Arduino firmware is appropriate only when you need unusual timing or a proprietary API. OpenBeken is relevant to Beken/Tuya hardware, not to the genuine ESP8266 transplant described here.

Troubleshooting decision tree

  • No serial output: check crossed TX/RX, common ground, 3.3-V logic, GPIO0 low at boot, port selection and solder joints.
  • Boot loops or brownouts: use a stronger 3.3-V regulator, shorter power wires and local decoupling; adapter power is often inadequate.
  • Wi-Fi works, no receive: verify the receiver trace, GPIO function, receiver supply and electrical noise.
  • Receive works, transmit fails: identify the LED-driver input, check active polarity and test the transistor/LED path independently.
  • MQTT command fails: confirm the actual topic and payload in Tasmota rather than relying on an old example.
  • AC control is inconsistent: capture complete stateful messages and use the correct protocol rather than treating AC remotes like simple toggle remotes.

When not to do this

This modification makes sense when the RM Mini is already stranded, its IR hardware is good and you are comfortable with fine soldering. It is a poor choice when the device still works, the revision is unknown, you lack a reliable 3.3-V supply, or a modern local IR bridge costs less than your time and tools. A development board or programmer fixture can reduce debugging risk, but a NodeMCU carrier is usually too large for the original enclosure.

Once the transplant works, insulate exposed joints, confirm Wi-Fi range and temperature, and close the case only after repeated receive/transmit tests. The modification may be permanent, and failure can leave the original Broadlink functionality unrecoverable.

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